September 12-16, 2005 Hot and sunny!
This car trip was reminiscent to one a few years earlier, where 4 adults (Dick, Hartley, Eva, and I) had piled into the Honda Civic and traveled to Port Townsend to see the Wooden Boat Festival and other points of interest in the area. There was the debate over the appropriate temperature in the vehicle, where to stop, and who is navigating anyway! Same discussions, different scenery, and there was an extra body with one more point of view on our trip to Vegas.
At the break of dawn 5 adults piled into a rental car, a Nissan, this is a midsize vehicle? After taking what could only be described as one of Maureen’s shortcuts, we made a relatively straightforward trip into a sightseeing trip that extended our time in the car by an extra few hours. Despite the additional challenge of the middle seat in the back, which became know as the hump seat, a good time was had by all. The good thing about having hump rotation was you got to call when it was break time.
We arrived in Los Vegas after dark and the lights of the city invited us from over 20 miles away. The unit we stayed in was perfect for the 5 of us. There were 2 full bathrooms and a kitchen with a dishwasher and microwave, a dining area, 2 TVs with DVD/VCR, and in suite laundry. Luxuries we haven’t seen and really appreciated while on our vacation. We had access to 2 great swimming areas; one called the lazy river in which you could take an inner tube and float around the course of the pool or give yourself an exercise routine by swimming against the current. I choose the inner tube, a book, and a cold beverage for my turn around the pool. The other, a regular pool that was “adult only”. There was a hot tub, my personal favorite, games room, access to the internet, and a shuttle to town on the hour every hour from 10:00 a.m. till 1:15 a.m. for a return trip. You could also use the shuttle to get to the grocery store and the factory outlet mall. There was also another shuttle that would drop airline passengers off at the site.
Vegas, has always been one of those places on my list of places to see! Well, I’ve seen it and I can now strike it off the list. As neither Dick nor I are gamblers, (some would suggest otherwise based on our current adventure) we didn’t spend any time or money in the casinos. We did enjoy walking through the different theme hotels and participated in the venues. The monorail that linked a number of the hotels was an interesting way to get around town and see the less visible parts of the city when you’re at street level. The most memorable Vegas adventure, was when we discovered that the MGM Grand was having a boxing match and not just any match but a fight that had one of Brendan’s favorite fighters. The event was scheduled for the Saturday after our Friday departure, however we were able to pick up a souvenir T-shirt from the promotional vendors on Thursday afternoon.
Our day trip to Hoover Dam was a definite highlight; amazing engineering marvel. It is huge, and the complexity of not only the dam but the infrastructure that was and is still required to maintain this facility is mind numbing.
The trip back was less difficult, as we passed through the Mojave Desert earlier in the day and the temperature in the vehicle was more comfortable. No shortcuts, reducing the time in a too small car for 5 adults. The hump seat however, remained as uncomfortable as it had been on the way down.
We arrived back in time to enjoy Oakland Yacht club’s Friday night BBQ with Shearwater and Falcon VII to spend some time with their crew before they head up the Delta tomorrow.
September 17-22, 2005 not as hot as Nevada, nevertheless hot and sunny!
We’re back in the comfort of our berth. We’re way too comfortable here, the thought of going back out is starting to make me loose my nerve!
We had the rental car for one more day so we were able to pick up some extra inventory (read wood), and provisions that are awkward or too heavy to carry, for the next leg of our journey.
We did a day trip to San Francisco, (referred to as “the City” by locals). I think we used every mode of transportation know to man, with the exception of air, touring the City. It was a wonderful day travelling up and down the streets via the cable car. We ended up at the end of the line and spent time at Fisherman’s Wharf. We toured the Maritime museum where Dick would have the job of his dreams, building/renovating old wooden boats in a shop totally outfitted with every imaginable tool and all the wood any one person could want or imagine. This is a state-operated facility, and the nice young man, Jason, and 2 other guys actually had “the job”. After our day in the City and a bite to eat we hoped on another cable care before we grabbed a cab for . . . wait for it . . . Dick to attend a barbershop chorus practice. It was a special night as the Sweet Adeline’s were having a joint practice. Nice bunch of guys at the Cable Car Chorus, and provided special treats as it was a joint practice!
September 23, 2005
Adios! to OYC and on to our new adventure. Our plan is to spend a couple of weeks or 10 days in the Delta exploring the fresh water sloughs and rivers 100 miles inland. This will be Blue’s first passage in fresh water.
Leaving the sanctuary of the Oakland estuary, with sunshine and a light breeze that rapidly grew into a stiff breeze (30kts.), as we passed under the Bay Bridge. The wind waves and surge coming out of the west added to the less than friendly seas that lasted until we got into the lee of Angel Island where things calmed and we were sailing comfortably. Nice sail from Angel Island, across Suisan Bay with Blue seeing 8kts. and into Vallejo and the club there for dinner and fellowship.
September 24, 2005
Hot and sunny as we leave Vallejo Yacht Club and head out to our next destination, Antioch. We followed the easily navigable channel and arrived to the music of the local festival.
We tied up next to Pakele (Hawaiian for escape), a 33ft Ranger skippered by Rick Sweeney and crew Dennis Fisher. Pakele had taken Rick on a passage to Hawaii and back to San Francisco in ’99.
We spent an enjoyable evening with the crew of Pakele dancing and carrying on with the locals at the festival. We have decided to buddy boat with them up the Sacramento River.
September 25, 2005
Hot and sunny, and as we were preparing to leave Antioch, just as Shearwater was tying up next to us. They had spent the past 4 days in the Delta, Potato Slough, having to return to Antioch for Kristi to stay aboard and visit with friends, and Paul heads back to Canada for a few days to look after some family related challenges.
Our plan is to meet up with our new boat buddy Pakele in Oxbow.
We traveled down Fisherman’s Cut, a 2-mile long channel between tracts of farmland. Each side has levees that have been created by dredging the slough and creating access to and protection for the fertile farmland of the delta, which is actually just at sea level. On the banks there are the occasional float home, or homestead, or junkpile of derelict boats, barges, and stuff. The narrow channel also offers water-skiers a protected haven to practice their newest tricks and bathers a quiet spot to cool off from the heat of the day.
The Georgiana Slough, our next channel is getting to be a little more civilized as there are fine homes with docks and big powerboats a few sailboats moored at their doorstep (how decadent). Dennis from Pakele was there at the dock to take our lines at Oxbow Marina as I practice landing Blue into a slip.
September 26, 2005
Hot and sunny as we leave Oxbow Marina on the picturesque Georgiana Slough. We had a wonderful day drifting down the slough and into the Sacramento River.
Pakele and Blue, stopped in a small town called Locke, that has remained to its historical roots. The Chinese in the 1800’s were given the opportunity to develop this tract of land and continues to house a number of Chinese owned and operated businesses. We ate lunch in the local pub “Al the Wops”, as politically incorrect as that sounds it has had that name since the town’s inception. I had the best chicken salad ever.
Later that afternoon we watched a thunderstorm travel across the river as we headed towards Sacramento. We were the benefactors of some rain (don’t believe it never rains in California, cause man it pours) that helped to cool us down. We were entertained most of the evening with a lightening show. Being on the periphery of the storm gave us the advantage of the spectacular lightning show to the east and an incredible sunset in the west with the added bonus of staying dry and enjoying the outdoors. It reminded me of prairie thunderstorms I had experienced as a kid.
This night we just pulled over to the side of the river and anchored in 20 feet of water.
September 27, 2005
We woke to the most gorgeous sunrise this a.m. Our anchorage on the Sacramento River was totally uneventful. A couple of small motor boats passed by during the night. Dick had decided to sleep out in the cockpit, trying out our cushions for future hot nights in the south.
Hot and sunny as we drifted down the river. We are both surprised as to how similar the Sacramento River and the Red River in Wpg. are especially around Lockport. Of course there are differences as well, like the height of the levees. There are even Paddlewheel boats travelling up and down the river, like they did around Wpg. We arrived in Old Sacramento, or Old Sac, as the locals refer to this very interesting city after having yet one more bridge opened for us! Ah the power you wield with a 50 ft. mast, or at least how vulnerable and dependent you are to others with the power of the gate.
The first few blocks in Old Sac have been maintained to hold that historic and old town Gold Rush era of the 1800’s the buildings with wooden sidewalks, the train museum, and Wells Fargo still has a schedule. A statue of one of the Pony Express “couriers” sits in the middle of town. However, take a short walk through a concourse and you arrive at a 21st century shopping mall of downtown Sacramento where you’ll find all the trendiest of shops.
We had a BBQ with Pakele’s crew while tied up in the civic dock. The dock was disappointing after having been spoiled, there are no amenities (shower, restrooms, or grocery store within walking distance) and it was pretty costly, we did have electrical and water on the dock.
September 28, 2005
We’re heading back down the River today with about 2kts of current with us we’ll be able to cover a lot of ground. Our plan is to moor in Rio Vista.
Hot and sunny once again, and in desperate desire/need of a shower. There are lots of flies around I think they’re attracted to us. We took the opportunity to explore another slough, Steamboat, and it gave us the chance to take a sun shower and feel refreshed at least temporarily as the temperatures soared ~87 with not a whiff of a breeze. With no breeze Pakele’s crew was able to use the patio umbrella we lent them. They were particularly grateful as up to then they have had no refuge from the sun (no dodger). We are fortunate to have our dodger it has not only sheltered us from some pretty ugly/cold winds, on the coast it has also given us shade from the sun on this trip down the river.
We are especially pleased to discover that Blue stays reasonable cool down below I think the addition of the dodger is in part responsible for that.
Rio Vista Marina also has a RV park and as do most RV parks down here, there was a computer available however, the Internet was not connecting. Alas, we are still unable to get our next broadcast out, or pick up email.
September 29-30, 2005 hot and sunny
Another glorious day on the River and we’re headed for Benecia.
When we arrived in Benecia where the Farmers market was offering up all kinds of local treats. Dennis and I picked up a couple of savory rotisserie chickens and roasted potatoes that had been basted with the juices of the chicken as the turned on the spit.
Our plan had been to go back to Vallejo Yacht Club because they were a fun bunch of people, but they had a flotilla in from Stockton so there was no room. Our backup was to anchor at Angel Island, but discovered there was a Catalina Yachts rendezvous there so there would be no space there either. So we spent another day in beautiful Benecia and toured the old capital of California when it was first under American ownership. The grounds around the capital building had a grapefruit, lemon, and peppercorn tree, all heavy with produce.
October 1-4, 2005
We left really early and motored and sailed across the San Pedro Bay to Angel Island and then hit a fog bank that created some additional excitement as Blue’s engine died and of course we just happened to be in the shipping lane, with a freighter approaching. Some quick maneuvering and Dick had the engine running and we motored out of the fog into brilliant sunshine. We sailed the rest of the way to Brisbane.
The distances here are deceiving. Our trip up the Delta was over 200 miles and we only saw a small fraction of it. The trip across the bay today was 45 miles and we are almost back in Oakland but in a different climate. Our new friends Rick and Dennis and Rick’s wife Mailie, joined us tonight and we headed out to one of their favorite Mexican restaurants.
We have been invited to their home for a traditional Hawaiian meal. A couple of their neighbors came over and we had a feast followed by a Ukulele (sp?) extravaganza, even Dick got in on the action. Earl, one of the neighbors brought with him exquisite orchid lei and placed it around my neck. It had just arrived from Hawaii, I was overwhelmed. Back home we would have a Hawaiian theme night dinner that would include plastic grass skirts and leis, an occasional coconut bra, and flower shirts.
Earl has an amazing voice and Dick was trying to recruit him to sing Barbershop to sing tenor.
What great people we have met along the way. Rick would say at the beginning of each day, “this is the best day ever” and he meant it!
October 5
Finally we cast off and head back out under the Golden Gate to Half Moon Bay. Being back at sea after 5 weeks in protected waters was a real challenge for us. The swells were big but not too steep until late afternoon when the wind built up to 25 knots. At least there are no bars to cross, but the entrances are a bit tricky to navigate. Thank goodness for Cmap (computer navigation program.) This is a great little town and we are only 45 minutes over the hill from Redwood City in the Bay area. We should be able to get caught up with email and internet here and leave for Monterey in a couple days. Weather is back to coastal style, foggy cool and wet.
Journal 5
August 29, ‘05
Sunshine! Took the bus, it runs once a day, from Bodega Bay into Santa Rosa. A 45 min. trip into town that left the Spud Point Marina and traveled inland through some beautiful agricultural areas. The gravenstein apples were ripe and ready for the picking. A lot of the orchards reminded me of Pete and Jane Hammond’s place out in Metchosin. Lots of organic fruits and vegetables, as well as some really great wines are available in the Sonoma Valley. It would be great to have access to a vehicle so to stop and pick up some of the local produce. Unfortunately, the bus has a schedule and it doesn’t include any stops at the farm gate markets.
It was hot in the city, we found summer! We also found a great little café that had great coffee and allowed us to access the internet. I’m surprised how difficult gaining access to wireless remote has been since we have entered California.
August 30, ‘05
More sunshine, day 2 of summer. We hung around the marina today making phone calls and second guessing ourselves about having stayed. However, when they say small craft advisory SCA we stay put, we don’t need any extra drama in our lives. It’s plenty exciting without encouraging the wrath of the sea gods.
Its 3 weeks since I gave myself a hair cut. I would like to say it was more successful than the first time I cut my hair. I was 6 the first time I explored my career option as a hair stylist, the day before the grade 1 school picture. I’ve even been practicing on Dick over that past few months. His cuts seem to have worked out ok! Yes, maybe a little less of a challenge than doing a full head of hair, but nonetheless I thought looking into that polished stainless ‘mirror’ in the minimally fluorescent lit marina washroom, my head held high over the sink draped with toilet paper I was looking pretty professional. I proceed, I mimic the moves I’ve watched may hair stylist, Michelle, make a hundred times over the past 4 years and convince myself that yes I can do this. I have evidence that my skill level hasn’t improved all that much since that first try! Time heals and hair grows, I think its long enough now to get someone who knows what they are doing to ‘fix’ it!
We had a BBQ and then the crew from Veleda came over with a copy of Harry Potter 1 on DVD. There’s nothing like having friends over for a movie and popcorn.
August 31, ‘05
Day 3 of summer and we’re out of here! Winds are down, and the swells were only 9ft. in 9 seconds making a pretty comfortable trip around Pt. Reyes. It was a short day but a really pleasant day of motoring.
We’re anchored in Drakes Bay, about 25 miles from San Francisco.
Tomorrow we’re planning to sail under the Golden Gate. The weather is supposed to be ideal.
Happy Bday Brendan!
September 1, ‘05
A pewter start after spending an uncomfortable night anchored in Drakes Bay, the wind was light but the swell or maybe current or whatever was making anchoring bumpy and noisy. Dick didn’t sleep a wink, which is unusual for him. He can usually settle down after a bit. We had been rafted up to Veleda till about 2:00 a.m. when we decided it might be better to have her anchor on her own. During the unrafting Alice got her hand got between the dinghy kicker (outboard motor) and our top rails. She didn’t break it, just squashed it and gave herself an ugly bruise.
Coming into San Francisco, was exhilarating I have never seen so many boats, mostly commercial and sport fishing vessels. It was like watching two lines of ants, there was barely a break between vessels just a steady flow. I don’t know where they went or where they came from as we neared the bar there was just Blue and Veleda going into the Bonita channel. I was asked in an email what "crossing the bar was a non event” meant. So for my nonsailing buddies I hope this clears the mystery up, for those of you that do sail. Crossing a bar, according to Maureen, can be a real challenge as this huge mass of ocean water is either being squished into or out of a bay depending on the tide. As the water gets squished it carries along with it a pile of sand. The sand is then dumped into the narrowing and the channel becomes very shallow. Now the wind and the current and the tides have an opportunity to add their level of challenge. The wind can create wind waves and/or add to the already existing swell. Mostly wind waves just make you wet, but the swell can carry ugly rogue waves that can lift you up and throw you around like a paper boat in a fountain and they don’t discriminate they toss loaded freighters around just as easily as they do a 34’ steel sloop, or they can land on you and your deck, hard. Then the current and tide (depending on your timing) can have you almost standing still or even going backwards as you rev your engine to no avail. So when I tell you that we crossed the bar uneventfully, it means we timed our crossing so the tide was working for us, and that there was a manageable swell. We’ve crossed bars that we almost as flat as glass and some, well not so much. We timed our entry of the bar to San Francisco, on a flood tide, 3ft. swell, light fog and . . . was about 30’ deep.. . . For this momentous occasion as we passed under the Golden Gate bridge we popped the cork off a bottle of bubbly (unfortunately we had run out of the favourite KP Plonk Blonk) and watched as the fog lifted off the tops of the bridge and the sun came out and we motored in Sausalito. We checked into the Clipper Yacht Marina, made a quick trip to town. When we returned we had decided we needed a nap and at 4:00 p.m. passed out the next time we were conscious it was 6:00 a.m.
TECHNICAL ADDENDUM: BAR CROSSINGS by dick.com
Most of the harbors large and small along the American west coast occur where rivers empty into the ocean. This covers large entrances like the Columbia River and San Francisco Bay as well as small ones like Noyo River or Bodega Bay. As these rivers flow out they dump sand and silt at the delta to form sand bars. The US Army Corps of Engineers has built breakwaters on either side of these deltas. There is also a large and continuous westerly swell from the open Pacific which runs anywhere from 3 to 12 feet and larger in storms. Usually it is in the middle of the range. When these swells cross the sand bar they form breaking waves as the water shallows from 200 to 30 feet or less. If the tide is flowing out with the river current (ebbing) the waves are always steep and severe because the outgoing water is opposing the incoming swell. If the tide is flooding then the incoming tide overwhelms the river outflow and the current actually runs with the swell. The swells then become just big smooth hills and are easily negotiated.
When you add the prevailing westerly wind to this mix it simply adds wind waves to the height of the swell and makes crossing the bar that much more interesting.
The US Coast Guard is a phenomenal organization that provides incredible services to boaters. There is a USCG station at every harbour and they respond immediately on VHF ch 16. They will give you bar reports, current conditions, and weather reports, escort you in or even tow a vessel in peril. Some of our fellow boaters have used the escort, many have used the bar condition report. They monitor the bars and even close them to traffic if conditions are severe or close them to, say, boats under 25 feet.
Our first crossing at Gray’s Harbor was so benign we missed it altogether and did not realize we had crossed until we entered the marina. Our second was the notorious Columbia River and that was also a non event. This time we were more aware as we watched the depth sounder until we were through. Our fifth crossing we were so confidant that we even tried it at the beginning of an ebb tide. This was a mistake. The swells were big steep and ugly and it was all I could do to hand steer all the way in, Never again. In 19 crossings that was our only bad experience and now we only cross on the flood.
September 2, ‘05
Pewter till noon and then glorious sunshine. We spent the day in search of a kicker. As from here on down the coast we’ll be using the dingy a lot while we’re anchoring or tied to mooring balls. We found a Honda dealer in San Rafael and hopped on the local transit bus to go and check it out. San Rafael is about 10 times the size of Sausalito and there is at least 10 times the number of vehicles. We bought a 5hp Honda, and the owner of the shop offered us a lift back to Sausalito. I was wondering how we would get the motor back on the bus! Another day of successful hunting and gathering.
September 3, 05
Pewter till noon and more sunshine! Really warm if you can get out of the wind and just hang out in the sunshine. We’re anchored in the bay, across from town. Now that we have the dingy available to transport us to shore we don’t need to pay marina fees. The Sausalito channel is very busy channel; there is a constant parade of boats of every description. Sausalito seems to be rather expensive and I think the cost of housing is pretty high. There are lots of float homes here, some of them are huge! I saw one that I think is a triplex.
We went to the Sausalito Art Festival, there were over 250 artists displaying their goods. Apparently this is the largest show in the US, so anybody who is anybody is here. I know that my artist and art savvy friends would have thoroughly enjoyed this show. There were some truly unique pieces of artwork available. The prices on the items were way up there, but people were walking out with packages under their arms.
September 4, 05
Sunshine and we were able to get a mooring buoy in front of the Sausalito Yacht Club. As members of the Blue Water Cruising Association we are able to get reciprocal privileges. It is a rather rolly mooring but it’s secure and we’re really close to town. The folks at the club are very accommodating. They are accustomed to having BCA tied up here. Meridian Passage and crew just left a few days ago after spending a week. They have provided us with access to their wireless connection. The club has a shower, dinning room, and bar. What more could you ask for?
Last night was the first night that was so clear and warm you could actually spend time outside and drink in the view of San Francisco with all her lights twinkling I especially liked the way the lights were strung along the top of the bridge that spans from San Francisco to Oakland, outlining the bridge against the darkness and reflected in the water It was spectacular.
September 5, 05
Sunshine, and more summer. Took the dingy to town and picked up a few groceries. This is a really uncomfortable mooring. There is a lot of surge, and most of the boaters traveling either up or down the channel don’t abide by the 5kts. posted this close to the end of the channel. We’ve seen vessels actually boarded by the coast guard and fined for speeding a little closer in, but for some reason not here. We’ve talked about staying another day however, when you can’t even have something sitting on the table without flying off its just no fun!
September 6, 05
We’re out of here, it’s just too bumpy! Sunshine and we’re sailing to Richmond. We were able to sale off the mooring ball and straight down Raccoon channel between Tiburon and Angel Island. It was a great sail and we attempted to moor at Pt. Richmond, however, they’re under major renovations and couldn’t accommodate us, probably just as well as we ended up meeting Meridian Passage, Veleda and crews moored at Richmond Marine Harbour, the staff at the municipal harbour were extremely helpful and found us a slip. The first slip we were assigned was occupied, and after my 3rd docking for the day in a surge and hollowing wind, wasn’t looking forward to negotiating with another slip. I guess 4 times lucky, as we slipped into a 12ft. wide berth with 20kts of crosswind without even a bump on the dock. I think I’m getting a handle on this parking stuff! Dick has been bragging about my accomplishments.
Spent a couple of hours with Paul and Julia, talking about there passage down to SF. They went out 150 miles and tacked back in to arrive at SF 6 days later. They could have been here in 5 but needed to time the crossing of the SF bar. So they slowed down (an interesting concept for a sailboat) in order to arrive on a flood. Meridian Passage had 6 on board so were able to turn shifts around fairly comfortably. Paul and Julia, their 2 kids Erin 22 and Michael 18, Erin’s boyfriend Jordie 22, and a nephew! Only twice did Paul have to go up and discourage the ‘boys’ from trying to achieve 9kts. in 30-35 kts winds. Gratefully, they had a pretty uneventful passage!
September 7, 05
Pewter to start turning to a glorious afternoon full of sunshine. Jens and Alice from Veleda and the crew from Blue hopped aboard the local bus, and then onto the BART (rapid transit) and headed to Berkley. What a great adventure! The local bus drive talked about her travels to “all over the world”, except Alaska, Denmark and a few other places! Then negotiating the BART! It’s relatively inexpensive to use the local transportation. Groceries are about the same as in Victoria, only American dollars and housing is out of this world! I can’t figure out how people can afford to live here! Minimum wage, depending on the county is from $6-$12/hr. and an apartment is upwards to $1700. /mon.
Happy Bday Hartley!
September 8, 05
Pewter, as we leave Richmond and head to Alameda (an Island), to moor for 10 days at the Oakland Yacht Club. The channel is bustling with activity, we watched huge freighters loaded and unloaded of all their wares, jockeyed for position with a number of tugs pushing and pulling enormous loads, the local harbour patrol on his rounds, and a few other power and sailboats headed for points unknown.
Arriving at OYC, was a bit of a challenge. The slips are 30ft. long and 12ft. wide with a narrow alley way ~50ft. between the docks with many of the vessels hanging out a good long ways. We are 34’ and 11’ wide, so makes for an interesting event. This very nice young man, Chris thought he would be able to ‘catch’ Blue as we came into our slip. I think he was rather surprised that she wasn’t as easy as some of the boats he’s caught before. Most of the boats in this club are racers and are really light! After a brief wrestle and a slip of the transmission into reverse we were in without embarrassing ourselves or throwing poor Chris in the drink. Not the kind of impression you want to make on the members, throwing them in the drink!
September 9, 05
Sunshine. Really lazy day. Hair appointment, naps and reading. No luck trying to get a new computer on line. Dick spent about 5 hrs. trying to decipher Dell’s online catalogue. Oh! Well I guess we’ll continue to struggle along with this puppy until something else comes along.
Dinner at the yacht club and it was a real event visiting guests were honored and as Bluewater Cruiser members (Veleda & Blue) were introduced Dick made a really nice and yes brief speech thanking the club for embracing us and providing us with all the privileges of regular members. They have provided us with 5 days of free moorage and then it will be $5. /day after that. We also received access to their wireless internet gratis! that usually has a $5. /day fee attached. They have a TV room that includes a library that we have access to, as well as the most wonderful showers. There’s even an ice machine for those little afternoon cocktails we on occasion have imbibed. We had an extra BCA burgee and presented it in a reciprocal exchange for an OYC burgee.
September 10, 05
First day of real sun and heat. Quite encouraging. Went to a flea market at another yacht club right next door. What a lot of junk/inventory/boat jewelry they had for sale, we couldn’t find anything to buy. Just like Boater’s Exchange in Sidney, only more of it...
Took a dingy ride to the boat show at Jack London Square, a life long dream of Dick’s and while we were there, oh my we fell in love with a boat that is way beyond our reach. A gorgeous Island Packet 37’, what a beauty too bad she’s not steel. Oh well, back to our sweet Blue whom everyone admires and so much. BBQ pork loin with the crew of Veleda. And off to bed.
Meridian Passage arrived today and is moored at the club next door.
Sept 11, 05
More summer, hot and sunny! While having brunch at the club Paul and Kristi from Shearwater arrived. They have had quite a trip. We spent the day visiting and doing some long overdue boat jobs.
The people here have set a new standard for friendliness. Honestly offering any thing we might need from charts, to their own personal vehicles to get the longer distance chores done, just anything and everything. An incredible find!
We’re off to Vegas tomorrow with the crew from Veleda. A repeat visit for the Veleda crew but Dick and I, well it’s our first time! Maybe we’ll hit it lucky and bring home the dough for the Island Packet! That would be lovely but not likely as neither one of us particularly likes/knows how to gamble. Ah! I’m sure from what I’ve heard the shows will be where we spend our time.
All is well in Alameda! Hope all is well from where you hail!
Take care
m&d
svblue
Sunshine! Took the bus, it runs once a day, from Bodega Bay into Santa Rosa. A 45 min. trip into town that left the Spud Point Marina and traveled inland through some beautiful agricultural areas. The gravenstein apples were ripe and ready for the picking. A lot of the orchards reminded me of Pete and Jane Hammond’s place out in Metchosin. Lots of organic fruits and vegetables, as well as some really great wines are available in the Sonoma Valley. It would be great to have access to a vehicle so to stop and pick up some of the local produce. Unfortunately, the bus has a schedule and it doesn’t include any stops at the farm gate markets.
It was hot in the city, we found summer! We also found a great little café that had great coffee and allowed us to access the internet. I’m surprised how difficult gaining access to wireless remote has been since we have entered California.
August 30, ‘05
More sunshine, day 2 of summer. We hung around the marina today making phone calls and second guessing ourselves about having stayed. However, when they say small craft advisory SCA we stay put, we don’t need any extra drama in our lives. It’s plenty exciting without encouraging the wrath of the sea gods.
Its 3 weeks since I gave myself a hair cut. I would like to say it was more successful than the first time I cut my hair. I was 6 the first time I explored my career option as a hair stylist, the day before the grade 1 school picture. I’ve even been practicing on Dick over that past few months. His cuts seem to have worked out ok! Yes, maybe a little less of a challenge than doing a full head of hair, but nonetheless I thought looking into that polished stainless ‘mirror’ in the minimally fluorescent lit marina washroom, my head held high over the sink draped with toilet paper I was looking pretty professional. I proceed, I mimic the moves I’ve watched may hair stylist, Michelle, make a hundred times over the past 4 years and convince myself that yes I can do this. I have evidence that my skill level hasn’t improved all that much since that first try! Time heals and hair grows, I think its long enough now to get someone who knows what they are doing to ‘fix’ it!
We had a BBQ and then the crew from Veleda came over with a copy of Harry Potter 1 on DVD. There’s nothing like having friends over for a movie and popcorn.
August 31, ‘05
Day 3 of summer and we’re out of here! Winds are down, and the swells were only 9ft. in 9 seconds making a pretty comfortable trip around Pt. Reyes. It was a short day but a really pleasant day of motoring.
We’re anchored in Drakes Bay, about 25 miles from San Francisco.
Tomorrow we’re planning to sail under the Golden Gate. The weather is supposed to be ideal.
Happy Bday Brendan!
September 1, ‘05
A pewter start after spending an uncomfortable night anchored in Drakes Bay, the wind was light but the swell or maybe current or whatever was making anchoring bumpy and noisy. Dick didn’t sleep a wink, which is unusual for him. He can usually settle down after a bit. We had been rafted up to Veleda till about 2:00 a.m. when we decided it might be better to have her anchor on her own. During the unrafting Alice got her hand got between the dinghy kicker (outboard motor) and our top rails. She didn’t break it, just squashed it and gave herself an ugly bruise.
Coming into San Francisco, was exhilarating I have never seen so many boats, mostly commercial and sport fishing vessels. It was like watching two lines of ants, there was barely a break between vessels just a steady flow. I don’t know where they went or where they came from as we neared the bar there was just Blue and Veleda going into the Bonita channel. I was asked in an email what "crossing the bar was a non event” meant. So for my nonsailing buddies I hope this clears the mystery up, for those of you that do sail. Crossing a bar, according to Maureen, can be a real challenge as this huge mass of ocean water is either being squished into or out of a bay depending on the tide. As the water gets squished it carries along with it a pile of sand. The sand is then dumped into the narrowing and the channel becomes very shallow. Now the wind and the current and the tides have an opportunity to add their level of challenge. The wind can create wind waves and/or add to the already existing swell. Mostly wind waves just make you wet, but the swell can carry ugly rogue waves that can lift you up and throw you around like a paper boat in a fountain and they don’t discriminate they toss loaded freighters around just as easily as they do a 34’ steel sloop, or they can land on you and your deck, hard. Then the current and tide (depending on your timing) can have you almost standing still or even going backwards as you rev your engine to no avail. So when I tell you that we crossed the bar uneventfully, it means we timed our crossing so the tide was working for us, and that there was a manageable swell. We’ve crossed bars that we almost as flat as glass and some, well not so much. We timed our entry of the bar to San Francisco, on a flood tide, 3ft. swell, light fog and . . . was about 30’ deep.. . . For this momentous occasion as we passed under the Golden Gate bridge we popped the cork off a bottle of bubbly (unfortunately we had run out of the favourite KP Plonk Blonk) and watched as the fog lifted off the tops of the bridge and the sun came out and we motored in Sausalito. We checked into the Clipper Yacht Marina, made a quick trip to town. When we returned we had decided we needed a nap and at 4:00 p.m. passed out the next time we were conscious it was 6:00 a.m.
TECHNICAL ADDENDUM: BAR CROSSINGS by dick.com
Most of the harbors large and small along the American west coast occur where rivers empty into the ocean. This covers large entrances like the Columbia River and San Francisco Bay as well as small ones like Noyo River or Bodega Bay. As these rivers flow out they dump sand and silt at the delta to form sand bars. The US Army Corps of Engineers has built breakwaters on either side of these deltas. There is also a large and continuous westerly swell from the open Pacific which runs anywhere from 3 to 12 feet and larger in storms. Usually it is in the middle of the range. When these swells cross the sand bar they form breaking waves as the water shallows from 200 to 30 feet or less. If the tide is flowing out with the river current (ebbing) the waves are always steep and severe because the outgoing water is opposing the incoming swell. If the tide is flooding then the incoming tide overwhelms the river outflow and the current actually runs with the swell. The swells then become just big smooth hills and are easily negotiated.
When you add the prevailing westerly wind to this mix it simply adds wind waves to the height of the swell and makes crossing the bar that much more interesting.
The US Coast Guard is a phenomenal organization that provides incredible services to boaters. There is a USCG station at every harbour and they respond immediately on VHF ch 16. They will give you bar reports, current conditions, and weather reports, escort you in or even tow a vessel in peril. Some of our fellow boaters have used the escort, many have used the bar condition report. They monitor the bars and even close them to traffic if conditions are severe or close them to, say, boats under 25 feet.
Our first crossing at Gray’s Harbor was so benign we missed it altogether and did not realize we had crossed until we entered the marina. Our second was the notorious Columbia River and that was also a non event. This time we were more aware as we watched the depth sounder until we were through. Our fifth crossing we were so confidant that we even tried it at the beginning of an ebb tide. This was a mistake. The swells were big steep and ugly and it was all I could do to hand steer all the way in, Never again. In 19 crossings that was our only bad experience and now we only cross on the flood.
September 2, ‘05
Pewter till noon and then glorious sunshine. We spent the day in search of a kicker. As from here on down the coast we’ll be using the dingy a lot while we’re anchoring or tied to mooring balls. We found a Honda dealer in San Rafael and hopped on the local transit bus to go and check it out. San Rafael is about 10 times the size of Sausalito and there is at least 10 times the number of vehicles. We bought a 5hp Honda, and the owner of the shop offered us a lift back to Sausalito. I was wondering how we would get the motor back on the bus! Another day of successful hunting and gathering.
September 3, 05
Pewter till noon and more sunshine! Really warm if you can get out of the wind and just hang out in the sunshine. We’re anchored in the bay, across from town. Now that we have the dingy available to transport us to shore we don’t need to pay marina fees. The Sausalito channel is very busy channel; there is a constant parade of boats of every description. Sausalito seems to be rather expensive and I think the cost of housing is pretty high. There are lots of float homes here, some of them are huge! I saw one that I think is a triplex.
We went to the Sausalito Art Festival, there were over 250 artists displaying their goods. Apparently this is the largest show in the US, so anybody who is anybody is here. I know that my artist and art savvy friends would have thoroughly enjoyed this show. There were some truly unique pieces of artwork available. The prices on the items were way up there, but people were walking out with packages under their arms.
September 4, 05
Sunshine and we were able to get a mooring buoy in front of the Sausalito Yacht Club. As members of the Blue Water Cruising Association we are able to get reciprocal privileges. It is a rather rolly mooring but it’s secure and we’re really close to town. The folks at the club are very accommodating. They are accustomed to having BCA tied up here. Meridian Passage and crew just left a few days ago after spending a week. They have provided us with access to their wireless connection. The club has a shower, dinning room, and bar. What more could you ask for?
Last night was the first night that was so clear and warm you could actually spend time outside and drink in the view of San Francisco with all her lights twinkling I especially liked the way the lights were strung along the top of the bridge that spans from San Francisco to Oakland, outlining the bridge against the darkness and reflected in the water It was spectacular.
September 5, 05
Sunshine, and more summer. Took the dingy to town and picked up a few groceries. This is a really uncomfortable mooring. There is a lot of surge, and most of the boaters traveling either up or down the channel don’t abide by the 5kts. posted this close to the end of the channel. We’ve seen vessels actually boarded by the coast guard and fined for speeding a little closer in, but for some reason not here. We’ve talked about staying another day however, when you can’t even have something sitting on the table without flying off its just no fun!
September 6, 05
We’re out of here, it’s just too bumpy! Sunshine and we’re sailing to Richmond. We were able to sale off the mooring ball and straight down Raccoon channel between Tiburon and Angel Island. It was a great sail and we attempted to moor at Pt. Richmond, however, they’re under major renovations and couldn’t accommodate us, probably just as well as we ended up meeting Meridian Passage, Veleda and crews moored at Richmond Marine Harbour, the staff at the municipal harbour were extremely helpful and found us a slip. The first slip we were assigned was occupied, and after my 3rd docking for the day in a surge and hollowing wind, wasn’t looking forward to negotiating with another slip. I guess 4 times lucky, as we slipped into a 12ft. wide berth with 20kts of crosswind without even a bump on the dock. I think I’m getting a handle on this parking stuff! Dick has been bragging about my accomplishments.
Spent a couple of hours with Paul and Julia, talking about there passage down to SF. They went out 150 miles and tacked back in to arrive at SF 6 days later. They could have been here in 5 but needed to time the crossing of the SF bar. So they slowed down (an interesting concept for a sailboat) in order to arrive on a flood. Meridian Passage had 6 on board so were able to turn shifts around fairly comfortably. Paul and Julia, their 2 kids Erin 22 and Michael 18, Erin’s boyfriend Jordie 22, and a nephew! Only twice did Paul have to go up and discourage the ‘boys’ from trying to achieve 9kts. in 30-35 kts winds. Gratefully, they had a pretty uneventful passage!
September 7, 05
Pewter to start turning to a glorious afternoon full of sunshine. Jens and Alice from Veleda and the crew from Blue hopped aboard the local bus, and then onto the BART (rapid transit) and headed to Berkley. What a great adventure! The local bus drive talked about her travels to “all over the world”, except Alaska, Denmark and a few other places! Then negotiating the BART! It’s relatively inexpensive to use the local transportation. Groceries are about the same as in Victoria, only American dollars and housing is out of this world! I can’t figure out how people can afford to live here! Minimum wage, depending on the county is from $6-$12/hr. and an apartment is upwards to $1700. /mon.
Happy Bday Hartley!
September 8, 05
Pewter, as we leave Richmond and head to Alameda (an Island), to moor for 10 days at the Oakland Yacht Club. The channel is bustling with activity, we watched huge freighters loaded and unloaded of all their wares, jockeyed for position with a number of tugs pushing and pulling enormous loads, the local harbour patrol on his rounds, and a few other power and sailboats headed for points unknown.
Arriving at OYC, was a bit of a challenge. The slips are 30ft. long and 12ft. wide with a narrow alley way ~50ft. between the docks with many of the vessels hanging out a good long ways. We are 34’ and 11’ wide, so makes for an interesting event. This very nice young man, Chris thought he would be able to ‘catch’ Blue as we came into our slip. I think he was rather surprised that she wasn’t as easy as some of the boats he’s caught before. Most of the boats in this club are racers and are really light! After a brief wrestle and a slip of the transmission into reverse we were in without embarrassing ourselves or throwing poor Chris in the drink. Not the kind of impression you want to make on the members, throwing them in the drink!
September 9, 05
Sunshine. Really lazy day. Hair appointment, naps and reading. No luck trying to get a new computer on line. Dick spent about 5 hrs. trying to decipher Dell’s online catalogue. Oh! Well I guess we’ll continue to struggle along with this puppy until something else comes along.
Dinner at the yacht club and it was a real event visiting guests were honored and as Bluewater Cruiser members (Veleda & Blue) were introduced Dick made a really nice and yes brief speech thanking the club for embracing us and providing us with all the privileges of regular members. They have provided us with 5 days of free moorage and then it will be $5. /day after that. We also received access to their wireless internet gratis! that usually has a $5. /day fee attached. They have a TV room that includes a library that we have access to, as well as the most wonderful showers. There’s even an ice machine for those little afternoon cocktails we on occasion have imbibed. We had an extra BCA burgee and presented it in a reciprocal exchange for an OYC burgee.
September 10, 05
First day of real sun and heat. Quite encouraging. Went to a flea market at another yacht club right next door. What a lot of junk/inventory/boat jewelry they had for sale, we couldn’t find anything to buy. Just like Boater’s Exchange in Sidney, only more of it...
Took a dingy ride to the boat show at Jack London Square, a life long dream of Dick’s and while we were there, oh my we fell in love with a boat that is way beyond our reach. A gorgeous Island Packet 37’, what a beauty too bad she’s not steel. Oh well, back to our sweet Blue whom everyone admires and so much. BBQ pork loin with the crew of Veleda. And off to bed.
Meridian Passage arrived today and is moored at the club next door.
Sept 11, 05
More summer, hot and sunny! While having brunch at the club Paul and Kristi from Shearwater arrived. They have had quite a trip. We spent the day visiting and doing some long overdue boat jobs.
The people here have set a new standard for friendliness. Honestly offering any thing we might need from charts, to their own personal vehicles to get the longer distance chores done, just anything and everything. An incredible find!
We’re off to Vegas tomorrow with the crew from Veleda. A repeat visit for the Veleda crew but Dick and I, well it’s our first time! Maybe we’ll hit it lucky and bring home the dough for the Island Packet! That would be lovely but not likely as neither one of us particularly likes/knows how to gamble. Ah! I’m sure from what I’ve heard the shows will be where we spend our time.
All is well in Alameda! Hope all is well from where you hail!
Take care
m&d
svblue
Journal 4
August 20, ‘05
Foggy and cool. Old Town Eureka is very similar to Victoria’s downtown (James Bay Area), Victorian style homes and commercial building seemed to be the choice of builders. It’s a quaint town, with some unique shops. Not many of the stores are open, and those that are, are not busy. We found one of the local internet cafes and for $2. for the day were able to get some of our overdue email messages, picked up and responded to.
We were invited to have Danish burgers with Veleda this evening.
August 21, ‘05
Foggy and cool. Walked to town and found a store, though called a grocery store, sells mainly what was described by one of the customers as synthetic food. After reading the labels of a number of different packages, I had to concur. It was an interesting adventure. We know there are other grocery stores in town so we’ll try for one of them tomorrow.
What started as a rather dismal day has turned out to be sunny and provided us with a glorious sunset! Interesting how watching the sunset over the pulp mill spewing particulate in the environment can be so … breathtaking.
August 22, ‘05
Foggy and cool. We have big plans seek out the “grocery” store. We walk a lot when we are in port; don’t know if that is why both Dick and I have lost weight or if the energy we’re using to keep warm or upright, while sailing is the impetus. However, whatever the cause the effect has Dick hiking up his jeans and proudly demonstrating the two notch impact on his belt.
There is a resident grey whale in the bay and we were entertained for about an hour this evening as she/he breached and blew about 300 yards from where we are docked. I’m not sure how this huge mammal can be comfortable in this shallow bay; remember this is where we were grounded. There are also, pelicans, harbour seals, and numerous other birds, including herons. There is even a white heron, which I’ve never seen before.
Another glorious sunset!
And, dare I not forget to mention that Eureka has Barbershop chorus, that meets on Monday nights from 7-10:00. So, yes Dick climbed aboard the bike (provided at no cost from the marina) held together with duct tape, yes duct tape and some wire and peddled his butt up the hill for a couple hours of fellowship and singing. I knew he wouldn’t be able to quit cold turkey. He sure loves to sing!
August 23, ‘05
Sunshine, no wind (indicated by the smoke stacks of the pulp mill) and maybe a shorts kind of day. My elusive dream of an endless summer.
We walked into town and on the way we found the local Chamber of Commerce and will be able to access their internet “tomorrow”. We continued on from there to our next stop, one of the two of the shopping malls in Eureka. This mall has a Sears store (if you’ve seen one shopping mall you could probably say you’ve seen them all) and Dick was able to buy “more tools”. He’s a happy man. Did you know that screw drivers, and most other tools, don’t float? and even if they are craftsman you have to return them to cash in on the guarantee.
Found the second shopping mall that had a grocery store, WINCO, and a Longs drugs. Longs is very similar to the London Drugs in that they sell everything with one exception Longs also sells liquor. When we walked through WINCO I couldn’t help but think that Hartley (Dick’s cousin in Wpg.) and Barb (Dick’s sister in law in Brandon) would enjoy this grocery store. Hartley, they have everything here! and Barb, gourmet cooking ingredients I’ve only read about. It was amazing. When we cashed out, yes cashed out, as they don’t accept any other form of payment. No credit, no debit, just cash. We were told that was one of the ways they were able to keep costs down. We ended up taking a cab home, as we once again we bought more than our poor knap sack could handle (something to do with the purchase of 1.75l of Canadian Club for $13.95) or our bodies.
Dick has come down with an ugly head cold and has spent most the rest of the day sleeping. I’m glad it’s a cold as he has been really out of sorts (grumpy, cotton headed, and not doing any boat chores for the past week). I was concerned maybe his blood pressure medication was out of whack!
We’ve met a bunch of cruisers and they all have interesting and varied stories of the different ports and passages. And, what I’ve learned is to listen to everything they say, and then we make my own decision about what and where we’ll go and do next. Mostly, we listen intently to the weather reports; I listen to my gut, talk about it, and then decide whether to go or to stay.
August 24, ‘05
Another pewter morning, an expression I learned from Ruth (a good friend from Wpg.) who describes the weather as being pewter as opposed to being dull and grey. A much more positive way to describe my surroundings and helps keep me from getting in a funk about the weather!
Dick is also pewter again today. Sleeping mostly, not eating a whole lot, and coughing just to remind me he’s here!
I cleaned Blue’s decks today, took the muriatic acid to the rust spots and scrubbed her shiny, bare footed (no shorts) in the sunshine!
My turn to peddle my butt up to my new favorite shopping market WINCO and pick up a few things we didn’t have room for yesterday. We’re planning an overnighter and I wanted to get some extra snack type foods for the trip tomorrow if Dick is going to be well enough. He seems a little bit better! I lighter shade of grey.
Stopped in at the Chamber of Commerce and could have got a job there if I would have wanted/needed one. They are short staffed. The people we have met on this trip have been incredibly generous. Sue at the Chamber, gave me her computer to use for however long I needed/wanted, as the public use computer that was supposed to be hooked up the day previous had not been. I think she felt badly that I had peddled my butt up there to use it on her say so that it would be ready. Whatever her reason I was grateful to be able to get some of my email messages and respond to a few. I do miss the convenience of anytime access to a computer and the internet.
August 25, ‘05
We left Eureka after spending 6 days waiting for the right weather window. Mid morning we caught the slack tide making the crossing of the bar uneventful. Headed out to the infamous Cape Mendocino. It was a long haul around the cape (which the locals call the Cape Horn of the North) the wind was light 5-15 kts. out of the SSE, the swell only 4 feet, little wind wave, and 1300 rpm on Suzie we were barely able to get Blue up to 3 kts. It was a rough 27 miles and 8 hours. And, even in all this mess, there’s a sea lion out here playing in the surf.
They (who ever they are) say that there is only one more tough day on the passage to Mexico before we are into smooth sailing with sunshine and heat! So, I’m looking forward to getting past Pt. Conception and out of the fog and foulies.
By early evening the ocean flattened out and was calm, we motored through the night. It was clear and there were even more stars visible than when we overnighted in Oregon. I was surprised by that, with California’s population hovering somewhere around 60 million people I had ass/u/med that the coastline would be littered with communities, not so, it was dark. I watched the moon rise over the mountains, it was a spectacular sight. We maintained our 2 hour shifts, however when it came to Dick’s shift the fog had rolled in and not a star was visible, not even Veleda or the 2 other vessels off our stern. We kept watch on them on radar. These night shifts get lonely when it is dark and foggy. The only company is this little birds that chirp at you all night and then in the early morning come and visit, maybe they are on deck in the night however, it’s not until morning they come into the cockpit and visit. I had one little guy, finch/canary sitting on the toe of my rubber boat looking at me. Then he was on the tiller, I have pictures but they don’t suggest how close these little guys are to you.
August 26, ‘05
We arrived in Ft. Bragg, and had planned to stay however, upon our arrival it was evident that we were not going to be an option. Every marina, restaurant, bay was full of sport and commercial fish boats. There was some kind of fishing ‘derby ??? going on. We fuelled up and then side tied to a kind fisherman in big blue steel fishing boat that allowed us a couple of hours of much needed sleep, rest and food before we pushed off and headed to Bodega Bay that included another overnighter. Have I mentioned I don’t like night sailing? Well fortunately there are only a few more required overnighters. As this one almost did me in. One of my worst fears was realized early into my 8-10 shift. It was foggy already and so navigation was only by radar. As I watched the radar intently I observed Veleda about 1 mile ahead of us passing a vessel and thought they were really close but the vessels didn’t appear to be moving so I wasn’t too concerned though I was going to call Jens on the VHF and ask what the guy was doing. I didn’t and as I continued watching I could see visually by his lights that it was a fish boat and was approaching us about 5 degrees off our port. Still watching him and the radar I was just questioning in my mind, I wonder what this guy is doing when he turned directly into our path. I screamed for Dick, who was down below sound asleep, I had simultaneously yanked the auto pilot off its mount and turned as hard and fast as Blue could sail us away from him. He was so close I could see what the hand on deck was wearing. The funny (I say now) thing is I don’t think the guy ever knew that we were there. I know he didn’t hear me scream over the roar of his engines, but why he didn’t see us after lying idle for so long. I can’t even begin to guess. After I settled down and Dick put me back together I was relieved from my shift, early. Thinking back I don’t know what I could have done differently at that time, in the future I will be certain to give any vessel a wider berth. Yup! It was scary, probably the craziest 10 min. of my life and fortunately I/we have the opportunity to talk about it and plan for the next time. I’m grateful everyday to creator/god/higher power for my life and what I’m able to do, so no I won’t take unnecessary chances and I will continue to live my life without being squashed by my fears.
Our little buddies (actually they aren’t the same ones) joined us again at day light Dick had one sitting on his harness and his gloves. They are very cute! I’m sure they are convinced that Dick is “Big Bird” as his foulies and gloves are yellow. Seriously, I wonder why they hang around the boat 6-12 miles off shore? It doesn’t seem to matter if we’re sailing or motor sailing they just hang out with us all night long, singing their little hearts out. Then when we get within a mile of shore they’re gone! These guys I named the bandit gang, as they had little black masks on where the little guys the day before were about the same size and were all yellow.
August 27, ‘05
Arrived in Bodega Bay early a.m. The entrance was a lot like Ilwacko, a long narrow channel, really well marked, with a safe harbour. Where it’s different is you can’t walk to town so once you have fuelled up, showered, done laundry, visited the local café (no internet) you’ve seen Spud Point. The only way to get to town is either the bus that runs once daily, or rent a car. As it looks like our weather window has been closed for a few days I think we’ll be looking at renting a car for a day.
Dick was so kind as to share his cold with me, so it’s my turn to spend most the day in a drug induced state and sleeping.
August 28, 05
Pewter! We were going to go, but decided not to after talking to the locals at the fuel dock and checking the weather again. Spent the day doing very little except catching up on chores and little maintenance jobs. Weather window looks like it will be closed for a couple days so we will go inland and see the sights and summer tomorrow.
Foggy and cool. Old Town Eureka is very similar to Victoria’s downtown (James Bay Area), Victorian style homes and commercial building seemed to be the choice of builders. It’s a quaint town, with some unique shops. Not many of the stores are open, and those that are, are not busy. We found one of the local internet cafes and for $2. for the day were able to get some of our overdue email messages, picked up and responded to.
We were invited to have Danish burgers with Veleda this evening.
August 21, ‘05
Foggy and cool. Walked to town and found a store, though called a grocery store, sells mainly what was described by one of the customers as synthetic food. After reading the labels of a number of different packages, I had to concur. It was an interesting adventure. We know there are other grocery stores in town so we’ll try for one of them tomorrow.
What started as a rather dismal day has turned out to be sunny and provided us with a glorious sunset! Interesting how watching the sunset over the pulp mill spewing particulate in the environment can be so … breathtaking.
August 22, ‘05
Foggy and cool. We have big plans seek out the “grocery” store. We walk a lot when we are in port; don’t know if that is why both Dick and I have lost weight or if the energy we’re using to keep warm or upright, while sailing is the impetus. However, whatever the cause the effect has Dick hiking up his jeans and proudly demonstrating the two notch impact on his belt.
There is a resident grey whale in the bay and we were entertained for about an hour this evening as she/he breached and blew about 300 yards from where we are docked. I’m not sure how this huge mammal can be comfortable in this shallow bay; remember this is where we were grounded. There are also, pelicans, harbour seals, and numerous other birds, including herons. There is even a white heron, which I’ve never seen before.
Another glorious sunset!
And, dare I not forget to mention that Eureka has Barbershop chorus, that meets on Monday nights from 7-10:00. So, yes Dick climbed aboard the bike (provided at no cost from the marina) held together with duct tape, yes duct tape and some wire and peddled his butt up the hill for a couple hours of fellowship and singing. I knew he wouldn’t be able to quit cold turkey. He sure loves to sing!
August 23, ‘05
Sunshine, no wind (indicated by the smoke stacks of the pulp mill) and maybe a shorts kind of day. My elusive dream of an endless summer.
We walked into town and on the way we found the local Chamber of Commerce and will be able to access their internet “tomorrow”. We continued on from there to our next stop, one of the two of the shopping malls in Eureka. This mall has a Sears store (if you’ve seen one shopping mall you could probably say you’ve seen them all) and Dick was able to buy “more tools”. He’s a happy man. Did you know that screw drivers, and most other tools, don’t float? and even if they are craftsman you have to return them to cash in on the guarantee.
Found the second shopping mall that had a grocery store, WINCO, and a Longs drugs. Longs is very similar to the London Drugs in that they sell everything with one exception Longs also sells liquor. When we walked through WINCO I couldn’t help but think that Hartley (Dick’s cousin in Wpg.) and Barb (Dick’s sister in law in Brandon) would enjoy this grocery store. Hartley, they have everything here! and Barb, gourmet cooking ingredients I’ve only read about. It was amazing. When we cashed out, yes cashed out, as they don’t accept any other form of payment. No credit, no debit, just cash. We were told that was one of the ways they were able to keep costs down. We ended up taking a cab home, as we once again we bought more than our poor knap sack could handle (something to do with the purchase of 1.75l of Canadian Club for $13.95) or our bodies.
Dick has come down with an ugly head cold and has spent most the rest of the day sleeping. I’m glad it’s a cold as he has been really out of sorts (grumpy, cotton headed, and not doing any boat chores for the past week). I was concerned maybe his blood pressure medication was out of whack!
We’ve met a bunch of cruisers and they all have interesting and varied stories of the different ports and passages. And, what I’ve learned is to listen to everything they say, and then we make my own decision about what and where we’ll go and do next. Mostly, we listen intently to the weather reports; I listen to my gut, talk about it, and then decide whether to go or to stay.
August 24, ‘05
Another pewter morning, an expression I learned from Ruth (a good friend from Wpg.) who describes the weather as being pewter as opposed to being dull and grey. A much more positive way to describe my surroundings and helps keep me from getting in a funk about the weather!
Dick is also pewter again today. Sleeping mostly, not eating a whole lot, and coughing just to remind me he’s here!
I cleaned Blue’s decks today, took the muriatic acid to the rust spots and scrubbed her shiny, bare footed (no shorts) in the sunshine!
My turn to peddle my butt up to my new favorite shopping market WINCO and pick up a few things we didn’t have room for yesterday. We’re planning an overnighter and I wanted to get some extra snack type foods for the trip tomorrow if Dick is going to be well enough. He seems a little bit better! I lighter shade of grey.
Stopped in at the Chamber of Commerce and could have got a job there if I would have wanted/needed one. They are short staffed. The people we have met on this trip have been incredibly generous. Sue at the Chamber, gave me her computer to use for however long I needed/wanted, as the public use computer that was supposed to be hooked up the day previous had not been. I think she felt badly that I had peddled my butt up there to use it on her say so that it would be ready. Whatever her reason I was grateful to be able to get some of my email messages and respond to a few. I do miss the convenience of anytime access to a computer and the internet.
August 25, ‘05
We left Eureka after spending 6 days waiting for the right weather window. Mid morning we caught the slack tide making the crossing of the bar uneventful. Headed out to the infamous Cape Mendocino. It was a long haul around the cape (which the locals call the Cape Horn of the North) the wind was light 5-15 kts. out of the SSE, the swell only 4 feet, little wind wave, and 1300 rpm on Suzie we were barely able to get Blue up to 3 kts. It was a rough 27 miles and 8 hours. And, even in all this mess, there’s a sea lion out here playing in the surf.
They (who ever they are) say that there is only one more tough day on the passage to Mexico before we are into smooth sailing with sunshine and heat! So, I’m looking forward to getting past Pt. Conception and out of the fog and foulies.
By early evening the ocean flattened out and was calm, we motored through the night. It was clear and there were even more stars visible than when we overnighted in Oregon. I was surprised by that, with California’s population hovering somewhere around 60 million people I had ass/u/med that the coastline would be littered with communities, not so, it was dark. I watched the moon rise over the mountains, it was a spectacular sight. We maintained our 2 hour shifts, however when it came to Dick’s shift the fog had rolled in and not a star was visible, not even Veleda or the 2 other vessels off our stern. We kept watch on them on radar. These night shifts get lonely when it is dark and foggy. The only company is this little birds that chirp at you all night and then in the early morning come and visit, maybe they are on deck in the night however, it’s not until morning they come into the cockpit and visit. I had one little guy, finch/canary sitting on the toe of my rubber boat looking at me. Then he was on the tiller, I have pictures but they don’t suggest how close these little guys are to you.
August 26, ‘05
We arrived in Ft. Bragg, and had planned to stay however, upon our arrival it was evident that we were not going to be an option. Every marina, restaurant, bay was full of sport and commercial fish boats. There was some kind of fishing ‘derby ??? going on. We fuelled up and then side tied to a kind fisherman in big blue steel fishing boat that allowed us a couple of hours of much needed sleep, rest and food before we pushed off and headed to Bodega Bay that included another overnighter. Have I mentioned I don’t like night sailing? Well fortunately there are only a few more required overnighters. As this one almost did me in. One of my worst fears was realized early into my 8-10 shift. It was foggy already and so navigation was only by radar. As I watched the radar intently I observed Veleda about 1 mile ahead of us passing a vessel and thought they were really close but the vessels didn’t appear to be moving so I wasn’t too concerned though I was going to call Jens on the VHF and ask what the guy was doing. I didn’t and as I continued watching I could see visually by his lights that it was a fish boat and was approaching us about 5 degrees off our port. Still watching him and the radar I was just questioning in my mind, I wonder what this guy is doing when he turned directly into our path. I screamed for Dick, who was down below sound asleep, I had simultaneously yanked the auto pilot off its mount and turned as hard and fast as Blue could sail us away from him. He was so close I could see what the hand on deck was wearing. The funny (I say now) thing is I don’t think the guy ever knew that we were there. I know he didn’t hear me scream over the roar of his engines, but why he didn’t see us after lying idle for so long. I can’t even begin to guess. After I settled down and Dick put me back together I was relieved from my shift, early. Thinking back I don’t know what I could have done differently at that time, in the future I will be certain to give any vessel a wider berth. Yup! It was scary, probably the craziest 10 min. of my life and fortunately I/we have the opportunity to talk about it and plan for the next time. I’m grateful everyday to creator/god/higher power for my life and what I’m able to do, so no I won’t take unnecessary chances and I will continue to live my life without being squashed by my fears.
Our little buddies (actually they aren’t the same ones) joined us again at day light Dick had one sitting on his harness and his gloves. They are very cute! I’m sure they are convinced that Dick is “Big Bird” as his foulies and gloves are yellow. Seriously, I wonder why they hang around the boat 6-12 miles off shore? It doesn’t seem to matter if we’re sailing or motor sailing they just hang out with us all night long, singing their little hearts out. Then when we get within a mile of shore they’re gone! These guys I named the bandit gang, as they had little black masks on where the little guys the day before were about the same size and were all yellow.
August 27, ‘05
Arrived in Bodega Bay early a.m. The entrance was a lot like Ilwacko, a long narrow channel, really well marked, with a safe harbour. Where it’s different is you can’t walk to town so once you have fuelled up, showered, done laundry, visited the local café (no internet) you’ve seen Spud Point. The only way to get to town is either the bus that runs once daily, or rent a car. As it looks like our weather window has been closed for a few days I think we’ll be looking at renting a car for a day.
Dick was so kind as to share his cold with me, so it’s my turn to spend most the day in a drug induced state and sleeping.
August 28, 05
Pewter! We were going to go, but decided not to after talking to the locals at the fuel dock and checking the weather again. Spent the day doing very little except catching up on chores and little maintenance jobs. Weather window looks like it will be closed for a couple days so we will go inland and see the sights and summer tomorrow.
Journal 3
August 10, 05
Today is more what I have expected for our passage. There was patchy fog and cleared to a beautiful sunny day as we crossed the Umpqua bar, light winds and a wee swell that allowed us to sail wing on wing almost all the way to Coos Bay. No toque, mitts, or scarf required for today’s journey. Still wear full foully gear (and she’s starting to smell a bit foully).
Coos Bay bar was another non event, for which I am most grateful after our experience entering Winchester Bay. That makes 8 of 9 crossings without incident. We met up with some Blue Water Cruisers, who have been holed up here for the past 6 days. They have a 35 Benneteau captains Paul and Kristi with 2 additional crew, a former co-worker and friend of Paul’s, Ian and his son Leif. They had been off shore for 67 hours when they had enough of a pounding and decided to come in, escorted by the coast guard at midnight through pea soup thick fog.
Leif 17, is what I would describe as a typical teenager, eats lots, sleeps lots, and not driven without really specific instructions. Works well for the “captains” in the crowd.
Leif is also a very bright young man who suffers from seasickness and is the resident knot aficionado and sea life expert. He was able to tell me all about the fish I had seen off the coast of Cape Flattery. I had described this flat, round fish floating close to the surface was what I thought had been a bottom fish, unceremoniously disturbed by one of the fishing boats relative to the location of the fish. Apparently not, Leif tells me it is a sunfish, a Mola Mola. They skim along the surface eating jelly fish and can grow to about 8’ in diameter. They have been known to create some real challenges with devastating results for cruisers in the South Pacific.
August 11, 05
Dick and I shared a cab ride to town with Kristi in the brilliant sunshine today. The wind is very cool, but get out of the wind and it’s toasty. Our tour of the largest Walmart in Oregon give me a feeling of completeness. I have now toured the largest Safeway in Oregon, that was in Astoria, and now the largest Walmart in Oregon. I’ve also had the pleasure of rounding out my shopping experience by visiting 5 of the 7 family owned England Marine Supply stores in Oregon. Oh! what shopping delights might California hold?
Touring the town of Charleston, we’ve made friends with the local electronics store. Brenda found a microphone for Dick’s 20+ year old VHF and charged him a whopping $10. We were thinking this little misadventure was going to cost us a whole new radio. Phil out back was also able to scrounge up an instrument cover for the depth meter for another $5. We are so far ahead of the game that when Brenda said I could use her internet to try and find Veleda I was sure I had found Nirvana. The local Marina RV park office receptionist has been an invaluable find as well.
This is day 60 for abnormal winds, the fisherman are really struggling as the salmon fishing has been closed along the coast and its too rough for them to go out for tuna. They’re stuck and they’re frustrated, it’s starting to wear on some of them. The abnormal winds have grounded us too, probably until Sunday or maybe even Monday, They have kept Shearwater tied up for the past 7 days. They need the same weather window for getting out of Coos Bay. It’s not just the science of weather forecasting that encourages us to leave the various marinas, or our search for summer, the holding tank has a decided impact (3 days in one place is just about enough).
This is the first day since we have been on the boat that Dick has not done one little bit of “work”. It’s not that there are no chores, there still seems to be an endless list of jobs to do.
August 12
Awoke to thick fog, no wind to move it out and the heat in the valley has trapped it on shore. We aren’t going anywhere today. We’ve already toured the town and found an amazing fish market. They not only sell fresh fish and seafood but they do their own smoking and I (who absolutely do not like tuna) tried their smoked albacore tuna with a teriyaki sauce. It was amazing! I’m hooked (so to speak).
Where else but in Coos Bay could you go to the local pub expecting a little clam chowder and a glass of white wine looking out at the slough, and also be a party to a wedding? The bride wore a lovely white satiny dress that didn’t really show her tattoos in their best light. (I’m grateful that Lane has chosen to wait before getting the Guns and Roses tattoo she was “gunning” for in her teens). Half the guests were wearing the finest duds adorned with parkas, no kidding, it’s that blasted cold and the other half of the guests were there in their jeans and jackets. So go ahead ask how small is Coos Bay? Well when you’ve only been in town 2 days and you not only recognize some of the folks at the wedding you actually know a few of them by name and where they work., that’s how small Coos Bay is! However, that’s not the scariest part. We’ve heard all these stories of how a vessel arrives and they aren’t able to leave. The first story we heard was from the folks off Shearwater, they met a guy who was single handing a Nonsuch north and wasn’t able to leave for a year.. Then there was the guy Dick ran into on the dock who was sailing with his wife to the Philippians from Alaska. When they arrived in Coos Bay got stuck, then he got a job you know temporary till they could leave, then she got a really good job, and then last November they bought a house. They arrived 5 years ago. Yikes! We got to get out of here. And, Shearwater is still here!
August 13, ‘05
More fog, no wind, can’t see across the pier. We’re not going anywhere. I took a cab to town to explore what possible bookstores are available. The cabs are all a flat rate $10 from the Marina to anywhere in town, and $5. from any one point in town to another.
My lesson here is patience and anyone who knows me knows that has always been my lesson. I haven’t learned it yet! So, I guess I’ll continue to have the opportunity to learn. (The lesson shall be repeated until learned. Thanks, Liana.) We learned to play Mexican Train Dominos with Shearwater and crew. It was fun!
Happy Birthday Lauralee!
August 14, 05
Heavy fog, no wind. This is getting depressing. I find it difficult to “do” anything. It’s too damp or wet. I’ve heard people complain that winters in Vancouver are like this! I feel trapped. This is a great little community, but I wouldn’t recommend it as a stopover this time of year as a destination, great!
Had dinner with Shearwater and crew played another round of dominos.
August 15, 05
We’re out of here! Half a mile of visibility and light winds. Crossed the bar with no incident. Kristi has suggested with all our crossings, there could be a book!
Saw a number of freighters and tugs on radar and as the fog lifted the farther we got out we’re able to see fishing boats, commercial and pleasure craft.
We’re headed to Port Orford, an open anchorage where Veleda has been holed up for 6 days..
We acquired a hitchhiker on this leg of our passage, a tiny finch like bird was clinging to the backstay for two or three hours, poor wee thing. Because of the rugged shore and outcroppings on the Oregon coastline we travel out to around 12 miles off shore. My curiousity has me wondering how these little guys get out there and then how do they get back. Anyway, I have his photo as he did make one attempt to leave us before returning to cling to one of the halyards on the pin rail. I’m not sure when he finally gave up on us for good. I do know it was before the winds picked up as we passed by Cape Blanco. The fisherman in Coos Bay, say the devil lives there. I believe they could possibly be right. It was a rough couple of hours going in, and what made it all worthwhile is that the sun was shining! Yahoo!.
Met up with Lodestar and crew, Logan and his dad Trig who are sailing north to Tacoma and have been holed up in Port Orford with Veleda. Lodestar is a 50’ ferrocement ketch that Logan and Trig picked up in San Diego 18 months ago and have been down to Mexico and are now headed North before heading out for Hawaii (I think next fall). They had invited us to dinner and we gratefully accepted a dinghy ride from Veleda to Lodestar.
All is well with the world. This anchorage is small and there are only 4 boats moored here, that seems plenty as we are swinging around on the end of our anchor like paper boats in a fountain.. Did I mention the wind was howling?
August 16, 05
Woke to sunshine and howling winds. As we started our mile and a half walk into town we were approached by one of the fisherman’s wife asking if we would like a lift to town. We gratefully accepted and hoped into the back of the pickup truck. (I feel like I’m in Mexico already). We hopped out of the truck as we arrived at the Paradise Café and were welcomed by the locals. They were suggesting that in fact this was a safe town and could see we weren’t taking any precautions. I guess they knew we were visitors as Veleda’s crew was still wearing their life vests. Funny thing is I didn’t even notice that our three companions were still wearing their life vests. Man has my life changed!
Our last sail in here was on a port tack. This was a first time experience and so all the stuff which we had secured for starboard only now came loose. We made a few more locker buttons, bungees and shelf retainers and all seems well now. It is amazing how the ocean will find all the weak spots. Also amazing is that the ones we expose are so minnow. Great to have such a solid boat.
For breakfast we had plate sized hotcakes (one). It was actually the size of a turkey platter. $2.50 plus a buck for blueberries. Dick’s omelet was more than he could eat and he barely touched the mountain of hash browns.
I’m beginning to think that sailors and farmers have a lot in common. It seems that there is either not enough wind, too much wind, the swells are too big, the combination of the swells and the wind wave and the winds aren’t good, it’s foggy. Steady 20 knots with gusts to 40.
August 17
Left Port Orful early and here to say goodbye was the local grey whale who frequents the anchorage. We had such a great sail to Crescent city we could not believe it was the same ocean. We went by Rogue River where the Devil’s sisters live. He had already got us at Blanco so they stayed in bed.
Modern technology!!!! The harbour at Crescent City has no bar but is strewn with reefs and rock outcroppings. Wind was down and fog was up. Visibility was about 2 boat lengths. Between radar, depth sounder GPS and chart plotter, we went in guided right to the dock.
August 18
Good showers and a long walk make us feel really new. They have the best pizza here. BBQ chicken and garlic with tomatoes and a white sauce and really good cheese. This is now California as we crossed the 42nd parallel yesterday so we had the local Merlot. Not much going on here as the major employer is the state prison.
August 19
As we leave the harbour we can’t believe the mess of rocks we went through on our arrival. Hurray for technology. Great day of sailing in the sunshine. The swell is down and wind just forward of the beam. We made such good time that we went on to Humbold Bay and stopped at the public Marina in Eureka. The eleventh bar crossing was a non event and we think we are getting the hang of it although we can’t get cocky. SF is rumoured to be a real bear. Our first grounding occurred here in the marina as they are a little short of funds for dredging.
Today is more what I have expected for our passage. There was patchy fog and cleared to a beautiful sunny day as we crossed the Umpqua bar, light winds and a wee swell that allowed us to sail wing on wing almost all the way to Coos Bay. No toque, mitts, or scarf required for today’s journey. Still wear full foully gear (and she’s starting to smell a bit foully).
Coos Bay bar was another non event, for which I am most grateful after our experience entering Winchester Bay. That makes 8 of 9 crossings without incident. We met up with some Blue Water Cruisers, who have been holed up here for the past 6 days. They have a 35 Benneteau captains Paul and Kristi with 2 additional crew, a former co-worker and friend of Paul’s, Ian and his son Leif. They had been off shore for 67 hours when they had enough of a pounding and decided to come in, escorted by the coast guard at midnight through pea soup thick fog.
Leif 17, is what I would describe as a typical teenager, eats lots, sleeps lots, and not driven without really specific instructions. Works well for the “captains” in the crowd.
Leif is also a very bright young man who suffers from seasickness and is the resident knot aficionado and sea life expert. He was able to tell me all about the fish I had seen off the coast of Cape Flattery. I had described this flat, round fish floating close to the surface was what I thought had been a bottom fish, unceremoniously disturbed by one of the fishing boats relative to the location of the fish. Apparently not, Leif tells me it is a sunfish, a Mola Mola. They skim along the surface eating jelly fish and can grow to about 8’ in diameter. They have been known to create some real challenges with devastating results for cruisers in the South Pacific.
August 11, 05
Dick and I shared a cab ride to town with Kristi in the brilliant sunshine today. The wind is very cool, but get out of the wind and it’s toasty. Our tour of the largest Walmart in Oregon give me a feeling of completeness. I have now toured the largest Safeway in Oregon, that was in Astoria, and now the largest Walmart in Oregon. I’ve also had the pleasure of rounding out my shopping experience by visiting 5 of the 7 family owned England Marine Supply stores in Oregon. Oh! what shopping delights might California hold?
Touring the town of Charleston, we’ve made friends with the local electronics store. Brenda found a microphone for Dick’s 20+ year old VHF and charged him a whopping $10. We were thinking this little misadventure was going to cost us a whole new radio. Phil out back was also able to scrounge up an instrument cover for the depth meter for another $5. We are so far ahead of the game that when Brenda said I could use her internet to try and find Veleda I was sure I had found Nirvana. The local Marina RV park office receptionist has been an invaluable find as well.
This is day 60 for abnormal winds, the fisherman are really struggling as the salmon fishing has been closed along the coast and its too rough for them to go out for tuna. They’re stuck and they’re frustrated, it’s starting to wear on some of them. The abnormal winds have grounded us too, probably until Sunday or maybe even Monday, They have kept Shearwater tied up for the past 7 days. They need the same weather window for getting out of Coos Bay. It’s not just the science of weather forecasting that encourages us to leave the various marinas, or our search for summer, the holding tank has a decided impact (3 days in one place is just about enough).
This is the first day since we have been on the boat that Dick has not done one little bit of “work”. It’s not that there are no chores, there still seems to be an endless list of jobs to do.
August 12
Awoke to thick fog, no wind to move it out and the heat in the valley has trapped it on shore. We aren’t going anywhere today. We’ve already toured the town and found an amazing fish market. They not only sell fresh fish and seafood but they do their own smoking and I (who absolutely do not like tuna) tried their smoked albacore tuna with a teriyaki sauce. It was amazing! I’m hooked (so to speak).
Where else but in Coos Bay could you go to the local pub expecting a little clam chowder and a glass of white wine looking out at the slough, and also be a party to a wedding? The bride wore a lovely white satiny dress that didn’t really show her tattoos in their best light. (I’m grateful that Lane has chosen to wait before getting the Guns and Roses tattoo she was “gunning” for in her teens). Half the guests were wearing the finest duds adorned with parkas, no kidding, it’s that blasted cold and the other half of the guests were there in their jeans and jackets. So go ahead ask how small is Coos Bay? Well when you’ve only been in town 2 days and you not only recognize some of the folks at the wedding you actually know a few of them by name and where they work., that’s how small Coos Bay is! However, that’s not the scariest part. We’ve heard all these stories of how a vessel arrives and they aren’t able to leave. The first story we heard was from the folks off Shearwater, they met a guy who was single handing a Nonsuch north and wasn’t able to leave for a year.. Then there was the guy Dick ran into on the dock who was sailing with his wife to the Philippians from Alaska. When they arrived in Coos Bay got stuck, then he got a job you know temporary till they could leave, then she got a really good job, and then last November they bought a house. They arrived 5 years ago. Yikes! We got to get out of here. And, Shearwater is still here!
August 13, ‘05
More fog, no wind, can’t see across the pier. We’re not going anywhere. I took a cab to town to explore what possible bookstores are available. The cabs are all a flat rate $10 from the Marina to anywhere in town, and $5. from any one point in town to another.
My lesson here is patience and anyone who knows me knows that has always been my lesson. I haven’t learned it yet! So, I guess I’ll continue to have the opportunity to learn. (The lesson shall be repeated until learned. Thanks, Liana.) We learned to play Mexican Train Dominos with Shearwater and crew. It was fun!
Happy Birthday Lauralee!
August 14, 05
Heavy fog, no wind. This is getting depressing. I find it difficult to “do” anything. It’s too damp or wet. I’ve heard people complain that winters in Vancouver are like this! I feel trapped. This is a great little community, but I wouldn’t recommend it as a stopover this time of year as a destination, great!
Had dinner with Shearwater and crew played another round of dominos.
August 15, 05
We’re out of here! Half a mile of visibility and light winds. Crossed the bar with no incident. Kristi has suggested with all our crossings, there could be a book!
Saw a number of freighters and tugs on radar and as the fog lifted the farther we got out we’re able to see fishing boats, commercial and pleasure craft.
We’re headed to Port Orford, an open anchorage where Veleda has been holed up for 6 days..
We acquired a hitchhiker on this leg of our passage, a tiny finch like bird was clinging to the backstay for two or three hours, poor wee thing. Because of the rugged shore and outcroppings on the Oregon coastline we travel out to around 12 miles off shore. My curiousity has me wondering how these little guys get out there and then how do they get back. Anyway, I have his photo as he did make one attempt to leave us before returning to cling to one of the halyards on the pin rail. I’m not sure when he finally gave up on us for good. I do know it was before the winds picked up as we passed by Cape Blanco. The fisherman in Coos Bay, say the devil lives there. I believe they could possibly be right. It was a rough couple of hours going in, and what made it all worthwhile is that the sun was shining! Yahoo!.
Met up with Lodestar and crew, Logan and his dad Trig who are sailing north to Tacoma and have been holed up in Port Orford with Veleda. Lodestar is a 50’ ferrocement ketch that Logan and Trig picked up in San Diego 18 months ago and have been down to Mexico and are now headed North before heading out for Hawaii (I think next fall). They had invited us to dinner and we gratefully accepted a dinghy ride from Veleda to Lodestar.
All is well with the world. This anchorage is small and there are only 4 boats moored here, that seems plenty as we are swinging around on the end of our anchor like paper boats in a fountain.. Did I mention the wind was howling?
August 16, 05
Woke to sunshine and howling winds. As we started our mile and a half walk into town we were approached by one of the fisherman’s wife asking if we would like a lift to town. We gratefully accepted and hoped into the back of the pickup truck. (I feel like I’m in Mexico already). We hopped out of the truck as we arrived at the Paradise Café and were welcomed by the locals. They were suggesting that in fact this was a safe town and could see we weren’t taking any precautions. I guess they knew we were visitors as Veleda’s crew was still wearing their life vests. Funny thing is I didn’t even notice that our three companions were still wearing their life vests. Man has my life changed!
Our last sail in here was on a port tack. This was a first time experience and so all the stuff which we had secured for starboard only now came loose. We made a few more locker buttons, bungees and shelf retainers and all seems well now. It is amazing how the ocean will find all the weak spots. Also amazing is that the ones we expose are so minnow. Great to have such a solid boat.
For breakfast we had plate sized hotcakes (one). It was actually the size of a turkey platter. $2.50 plus a buck for blueberries. Dick’s omelet was more than he could eat and he barely touched the mountain of hash browns.
I’m beginning to think that sailors and farmers have a lot in common. It seems that there is either not enough wind, too much wind, the swells are too big, the combination of the swells and the wind wave and the winds aren’t good, it’s foggy. Steady 20 knots with gusts to 40.
August 17
Left Port Orful early and here to say goodbye was the local grey whale who frequents the anchorage. We had such a great sail to Crescent city we could not believe it was the same ocean. We went by Rogue River where the Devil’s sisters live. He had already got us at Blanco so they stayed in bed.
Modern technology!!!! The harbour at Crescent City has no bar but is strewn with reefs and rock outcroppings. Wind was down and fog was up. Visibility was about 2 boat lengths. Between radar, depth sounder GPS and chart plotter, we went in guided right to the dock.
August 18
Good showers and a long walk make us feel really new. They have the best pizza here. BBQ chicken and garlic with tomatoes and a white sauce and really good cheese. This is now California as we crossed the 42nd parallel yesterday so we had the local Merlot. Not much going on here as the major employer is the state prison.
August 19
As we leave the harbour we can’t believe the mess of rocks we went through on our arrival. Hurray for technology. Great day of sailing in the sunshine. The swell is down and wind just forward of the beam. We made such good time that we went on to Humbold Bay and stopped at the public Marina in Eureka. The eleventh bar crossing was a non event and we think we are getting the hang of it although we can’t get cocky. SF is rumoured to be a real bear. Our first grounding occurred here in the marina as they are a little short of funds for dredging.
Journal 2
August 2
We awoke once again to fog and high humidity. It cleared; lots of sunshine as we left Ilwaco phonetically (illwayko), had lots of fun with deciding on how to say the name of this town. Motor sailed to Astoria. What a great little city, with a waterfront trolley that went from one end of town to the other (4 miles). The trolley is operated by volunteers, who obviously enjoy the ‘job’ (their jokes are terrible). A ~ 45 min. ride from the West Basin to the East Basin will cost you $1. or you can get a $2. unlimited day pass. This little trolley car is a great and inexpensive way to get around the town, and learn about the local history. We spent most of the day puttering and gathering supplies. Finished the day off with our daily, well almost daily, cruisers meeting. The meetings usually had a little discussion about the plan for the following day/s cruise accompanied by the host boat providing libations. Veleda’s turn.
August 3-4, 05
Sunshine and no condensation this a.m. We’ve got a phone card and wireless internet. We’ve been responding to email messages and sending phone celebratory messages across the continent. It was Dick’s mom and dad’s 64th anniversary today. We’re settled in for a few days, time for more chores and tie downs in preparation for our next overnighter. Lots of wind in the late afternoon and evening. We were finally able to find a place to get our pictures downloaded from the camera to a cd; I hope I’ll be able to get them onto the website at some point.
August 5,
More sunshine, this a.m. Left Astoria, a little later than we expected to, Veleda was broken down, and needed a wee fix. It was another uneventful bar crossing as we left the Columbia River and we were off, still mostly motor sailing in the sunshine. It was a clear night and we had been vigilante in our one hour shift rotation. Of all the fears I had, sailing at night conjured up visions of freighters coming within inches and rocks leaping out of the ocean and sudden masses of land appearing from nowhere, my anxiety was kept mostly at bay as the radar indicated all the land masses, and any coming and going vessels. I saw 5 shooting stars, (or meteors, or satellites, or whatever(s)), and wished on every one of them. I was in awe as I watched the seascape and coastline with the tiny communities’ lights coming in and out of view. It was like when you fly at night (only a lot slower). There was no fear of freighters, they travel way outside the 12 mile limit we travel in, but there are fish boats, lots of fish boats out at night, but no fear of them, they are lit up so brightly you can see them over 8 miles away and Veleda, well it was comforting having her on our starboard all lit up about a mile away. I didn’t realize how many birds hang out on the water, and at night. They would send a little call every once and a while. All that said, the beauty and the clear night sky, was a marvelous experience however the fatigue and chill has left us agreeing that night sailing is completely overrated. A very bright young woman had said to us prior to our departure, how important she felt time alone was so important. Ah! A difficult task one might think in less than 200 sq. ft. of living space not so, put two people on an overnighter with one hour shifts, hot bunking on the settee (the only berth with a lee cloth to keep you from falling out) and tada! you have ample alone time. Add to that when you arrive at your destination you pass out for an additional 10 hrs. a little independent shopping (or whatever) and you have achieved a pretty good balance. Thanks, for the suggestion Liana.
August 6, 05
We arrived in Yaquina Bay, at Newport Or exhausted. The bar crossing once again was a non event as we entering on a slack tide. We fueled up and attempted to tie up, the wind was howling, and after a short game of pinball off a couple of dock pilings we settled into a slip, declared “closed”. We love the new dodger, and feel it was one of the best investments made; it creates some real challenges when trying to dock. Kind of like trying to dock with full sails in big wind. Just something you wouldn’t want to do. Belligerent, and feeling as we could care less we were tied up, and would have gratefully accepted a tow to an appropriate slip, we slept.
August 7, 05
After a good sleep we became responsible boaters once again and moved Blue to a real slip. A few chores and off to tour the town of Newport. We had a great lunch at one of the local restaurants and spent some time watching the Steller sea lions that have made their home on one of the piers. It was surprising to see how long it took for their fur dry, and observe the pecking order. After the entertainment value had been reached we headed home to prepare to journey to Umpqua River. Veleda and crew have decided that night sailing is not overrated and are planning to sail to Port Oford about another 55 miles south from Winchester Bay on the Umpqua. We plan to meet up with them in a couple of days.
August 8, 05
An early start for us, 5:30 a.m. an uneventful crossing leaving Newport. We plan to reach the Umpqua bar before it ebbs. Lots of sunshine, and plenty of wind. We sailed most of the way to Winchester Bay maintaining a 2 hour watch regimen. It was cold out there today, down to the bone cold. When we reached Umpqua River we were expecting yet again another uneventful bar crossing, this was not to be. We arrived late and we were reminded of just how powerful and commanding of respect the ocean deserves. We were tossed around like a bath toy, and as I’ve come to expect, Blue, was true blue and tough. She’s way tougher than Dick and I will ever be. We really needed the old longer tiller that got installed in Newport. We arrived safely and tied up without incident. It took a very long time to get warmed up, a hot shower, dinner and finally to bed.
August 9, 05
Plans change! We were to be headed to Coos Bay today and then to meet up with Veleda in Port Orford the following day. We’ll be spending the day in Winchester, small craft advisory and ugly winds from the North and even uglier sea swell and wind waves. Ah! not so bad fish and chips for lunch on the dock, a walk to town and visit to the local internet café all in the sunshine. Life i
We awoke once again to fog and high humidity. It cleared; lots of sunshine as we left Ilwaco phonetically (illwayko), had lots of fun with deciding on how to say the name of this town. Motor sailed to Astoria. What a great little city, with a waterfront trolley that went from one end of town to the other (4 miles). The trolley is operated by volunteers, who obviously enjoy the ‘job’ (their jokes are terrible). A ~ 45 min. ride from the West Basin to the East Basin will cost you $1. or you can get a $2. unlimited day pass. This little trolley car is a great and inexpensive way to get around the town, and learn about the local history. We spent most of the day puttering and gathering supplies. Finished the day off with our daily, well almost daily, cruisers meeting. The meetings usually had a little discussion about the plan for the following day/s cruise accompanied by the host boat providing libations. Veleda’s turn.
August 3-4, 05
Sunshine and no condensation this a.m. We’ve got a phone card and wireless internet. We’ve been responding to email messages and sending phone celebratory messages across the continent. It was Dick’s mom and dad’s 64th anniversary today. We’re settled in for a few days, time for more chores and tie downs in preparation for our next overnighter. Lots of wind in the late afternoon and evening. We were finally able to find a place to get our pictures downloaded from the camera to a cd; I hope I’ll be able to get them onto the website at some point.
August 5,
More sunshine, this a.m. Left Astoria, a little later than we expected to, Veleda was broken down, and needed a wee fix. It was another uneventful bar crossing as we left the Columbia River and we were off, still mostly motor sailing in the sunshine. It was a clear night and we had been vigilante in our one hour shift rotation. Of all the fears I had, sailing at night conjured up visions of freighters coming within inches and rocks leaping out of the ocean and sudden masses of land appearing from nowhere, my anxiety was kept mostly at bay as the radar indicated all the land masses, and any coming and going vessels. I saw 5 shooting stars, (or meteors, or satellites, or whatever(s)), and wished on every one of them. I was in awe as I watched the seascape and coastline with the tiny communities’ lights coming in and out of view. It was like when you fly at night (only a lot slower). There was no fear of freighters, they travel way outside the 12 mile limit we travel in, but there are fish boats, lots of fish boats out at night, but no fear of them, they are lit up so brightly you can see them over 8 miles away and Veleda, well it was comforting having her on our starboard all lit up about a mile away. I didn’t realize how many birds hang out on the water, and at night. They would send a little call every once and a while. All that said, the beauty and the clear night sky, was a marvelous experience however the fatigue and chill has left us agreeing that night sailing is completely overrated. A very bright young woman had said to us prior to our departure, how important she felt time alone was so important. Ah! A difficult task one might think in less than 200 sq. ft. of living space not so, put two people on an overnighter with one hour shifts, hot bunking on the settee (the only berth with a lee cloth to keep you from falling out) and tada! you have ample alone time. Add to that when you arrive at your destination you pass out for an additional 10 hrs. a little independent shopping (or whatever) and you have achieved a pretty good balance. Thanks, for the suggestion Liana.
August 6, 05
We arrived in Yaquina Bay, at Newport Or exhausted. The bar crossing once again was a non event as we entering on a slack tide. We fueled up and attempted to tie up, the wind was howling, and after a short game of pinball off a couple of dock pilings we settled into a slip, declared “closed”. We love the new dodger, and feel it was one of the best investments made; it creates some real challenges when trying to dock. Kind of like trying to dock with full sails in big wind. Just something you wouldn’t want to do. Belligerent, and feeling as we could care less we were tied up, and would have gratefully accepted a tow to an appropriate slip, we slept.
August 7, 05
After a good sleep we became responsible boaters once again and moved Blue to a real slip. A few chores and off to tour the town of Newport. We had a great lunch at one of the local restaurants and spent some time watching the Steller sea lions that have made their home on one of the piers. It was surprising to see how long it took for their fur dry, and observe the pecking order. After the entertainment value had been reached we headed home to prepare to journey to Umpqua River. Veleda and crew have decided that night sailing is not overrated and are planning to sail to Port Oford about another 55 miles south from Winchester Bay on the Umpqua. We plan to meet up with them in a couple of days.
August 8, 05
An early start for us, 5:30 a.m. an uneventful crossing leaving Newport. We plan to reach the Umpqua bar before it ebbs. Lots of sunshine, and plenty of wind. We sailed most of the way to Winchester Bay maintaining a 2 hour watch regimen. It was cold out there today, down to the bone cold. When we reached Umpqua River we were expecting yet again another uneventful bar crossing, this was not to be. We arrived late and we were reminded of just how powerful and commanding of respect the ocean deserves. We were tossed around like a bath toy, and as I’ve come to expect, Blue, was true blue and tough. She’s way tougher than Dick and I will ever be. We really needed the old longer tiller that got installed in Newport. We arrived safely and tied up without incident. It took a very long time to get warmed up, a hot shower, dinner and finally to bed.
August 9, 05
Plans change! We were to be headed to Coos Bay today and then to meet up with Veleda in Port Orford the following day. We’ll be spending the day in Winchester, small craft advisory and ugly winds from the North and even uglier sea swell and wind waves. Ah! not so bad fish and chips for lunch on the dock, a walk to town and visit to the local internet café all in the sunshine. Life i
Journal 1
July 24, 05
The day prior to departure. It was a very busy day closing up the condo and taking the last few items required for our passage. (Thank goodness Hans had offered to take us to the marina, and that he has a half ton). Our trip out to Pedder Bay was the first of many exciting moments of that most eventful day. After a quick stop at the local Timmy’s for three Ice Caps followed by a second quick stop in which most of one of the unconsumed Ice Caps was fairly evenly distributed throughout the cab of the truck and contents including those sitting within. An effective hair gel for my two male companions, riding shot gun in the back seat definitely had an advantage.
Pete and Jane Hammond have offered to plant sit both the inside and outside plants so there were a couple of “largish” plants to leave at Glen Rosa while we are gone. When they arrived with a unique pruning which can only be achieved in the back of a pick up truck where there heads hang out the tail gate (and Jane is worried that they won’t survive her care, ha!).
Unloading the rest of the truck of its contents into an already overstuffed Blue was the next challenge. The makeshift homes were quickly found to be inappropriate as they would leap out or be repelled by their surroundings as Blue, I would like to say bobbed, but can’t, as two days later rolled and was tossed to and fro would be more accurate.
The Lamb BBQ hosted by the residents of Pedder Bay Marina and RV park for Jens, Alice and Stephen was much fun. We were honored to be included in the celebration and a number of family and friends showed up and presented us with warm wishes, advice, gifts and envied grievances. One of the high points of the BBQ was when after a stressful wait for mom our beautiful grandbaby and her mommy arrived to spend time with us. There was sad goodbyes and a warm hello as Brendan arrived with Milo. Milo seemed uncomfortable on Blue and was anxious and spooked by the wild extension cord lying in wait on the dock. Thanks, to Brendan’s sense of humour and teasing of the impending cavity search at our first destination in the United States did it occur to us that Dick’s passport had been safely stowed in the glove box of the Honda. The Honda that had been lovingly covered and put into storage 12 hrs. earlier. So, a rapid drive back to the condo, and after a few contortions the retrieval was a success and the round trip back to Pedder Bay was executed. Brendan probably didn’t get home till after midnight. Thanks Brendan!
July 25, 05
An early up. Sunshine, light winds and a gang of well
wishers on the dock waved Veleda, Blue and crews a goodbye. As we set off to Port Angeles you could see Peter playing his bagpipes in full costume the request tune “Scotland the Brave”.
We were escorted by a number of power and a sailboat out of the bay and into the “Straits of Juan de Fuca”. I think they just wanted to make sure we actually kept going and didn’t double back to the security of our slips.
Light winds provided a brief and enjoyable sail. As we passed the mid channel marker the American courtesy flag was raised. We entered Port Angeles and were checked into Immigration and Customs. After all the hype surrounding the security of entering the States we were anxious and found this truly be a non event. Papers were passed back and forth, money exchanged hands (unfortunately only in one direction) and the deed was done.
PA is a very pretty town, typically small town, friendly, helpful locals, and oh Yeah! Pretty much of everything is closed on Monday.
July 26, 05
Off to Neah Bay at a casual pace, about 49 nautical miles from PA. Thanks to the tide with us we were able to count on an extra 2 kts. As there was little to no wind the entire way the pace would have been a lot slower without the benefit of the tide/current.
We had freighters coming on one side of us and going on the other as we stayed in the “no traffic zone”. I was surprised by how little effect their wake had on us. It was absorbed by the rhythm of the ocean.
When we arrived at Neah Bay Veleda and Blue rafted up together, popped the corks of a couple bottles of champagne to officially acknowledge our passage.
Neah Bay is part of the Makah Indian Reservation and we were anchored with hearing distance of a Pow Wow.
We made it an early night as we were preparing for our first over night sail and wanted to make sure we got as much rest as possible for our sail to Grays Harbour. Despite the fact that the wind howled most of the night we all had a reasonable sleep as Dick and Jens had set the anchor alarms on both boats was there was little chance that we would drift or be dragged around and not hear at least one of the alarms.
July 27, 05
We woke to what I believe was a sunrise ceremony. Neah Bay was totally fogged in, and hearing the singing and beating of dreams somewhere in the fog was surreal.
We prepared for our first over nighter, or what we thought was prepared for the next 24 hrs., a hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner readily available to grab out of the fridge and fill our bodies (Ha!)
.
We navigated out of the channel through breaking fog and jockeyed for position with the pleasure fishing boats. The swells were amazing, at first terrifying then as I became more comfortable with the rhythm I could relax at my shift at the helm. The fog persisted through most of the morning, it did break to let the sunshine through for most of the afternoon. The wind picked up and we were finally sailing. Trading off on our 2 hour shifts was working well until we ran into, or more accurately, a squall ran into us! This was not part of our fair weather sailing plans. We reefed in, then at about 7:30 p.m. we heaved to. Heaved to, is as best I can describe, when you put the vessel in the trough of the swell, tying the tiller steady to course and keeping the sail in a small scooping (like a sugar scoop) shape.
We had lost visual and radio contact with Veleda that caused great concern. We were able to contact the PA coast guard to report our position and situation assuring them, or maybe that was assuring ourselves, we were in no immediate danger.
I got religion that night or at least I spoke loudly and often to the big guy, greater power, creator, and or any other spirit that might be listening. It was the longest night of my entire life. A night I will never forget. We learned a lot about what Blue could handle and what we were capable of handling. There we no contest Blue wins! However, if there were ever another situation we would be much more prepared, like the food in the fridge, well you can’t open the fridge door without expecting absolutely everything to come flying out, so pack the thermos bag with everything ready to eat, no assembly required, straws to put in the drink container because your not going to get any thing on the inside of you without one, plenty on the outside but nothing inside. And, man do you ever get thirsty! water, water everywhere and not a chance of getting a drop in you. Oh yeah! And getting sea sick, and using the toilet, this is the only time the playing field is even.
You’ll notice I’m not mentioning what the seas looked like, I can’t describe the image.
July 28, 05
I thought daylight would never come and at 5:30 ish it was light enough to set a course to Grays Harbour. We had drifted off course by about 20 miles, which was a little discouraging as it meant we had nine hours travel to get to our next destination which should have been only 2 or 3 had we not drifted.
Dick got Blue by the rudder and manhandled her keeping her ass to the waves as I glued myself to the GPS and gave him our position . I imagine this could have looked peculiar (if there was anyone around to see) as Dick faced out the stern and me facing forward like we were annoyed with one another. Dick wrestled with the “loose” tiller for about 3 hours before we were able to enlist the service of “Norman” (the autopilot). The seas were still just too angry for Norman or me to push Blue in the direction of Grays Harbour.
Once we were able to get Norman on the job Dick could go for a much needed rest while I keep watch on the radar, Norman and the weather.
Dick re-emerged and we tried to have a little something to eat. Then it was my turn to grab a nap, even though the adrenaline was still surging through my whole body thanks to exhaustion I was able to nap.
We were still exhausted as we approached the “bar”. I was steering, Dick navigating, the seas almost easy now, good thing as I could not have steered with the conditions of 10 hrs. earlier. We worked hard and with only a few tense words we made it over the bar without incident. As we fueled up the sun came out, we found our friends, a slip, a little dinner, and some much needed sleep and rest.
July 29, 05
Fog, Today we spent most of the day stowing the things that had leaped out from their temporary homes during the 45 kts. storm.
They will stay put now as they have been stowed in their new permanent homes adorned with new “buttons” (hardware that holds things down/in/together).
Dick did a job jar of repairs and I cleaned Blue up inside and out, and got some provisions from the friendly community of Grays Harbour. Grays Harbour has to be the most hospitable place I have in memory. Without prompting a man on the street asked if we were looking for the showers. I’m sure it was the towels we were sporting at 8:00 a.m., not our scent that led to his question. The shuttle bus driver after dropping me off at the grocery store where I was able to find a good selection of food and reasonable prices (took me right to the float we were moored at not just the assigned stop). He also offered suggestions as to which float had the best/freshest seafood. The owner of the RV park who offered the use of their wireless remote, regardless of the fact we are not guests of the park. It just went on and on, the folk are just as helpful as can be!
My body has bruises in spots that I didn’t even know that I had spots.
There was lots of sunshine today and when you were out of the wind very warm.
July 30, 05
Awaking to a heavy fog we continue to prepare Blue for our next leg of our passage under sunny skies. Veleda is ready to go but we’re still behind by about 9 hrs. and 5 days.
After finishing up our chores including the repair to the “loose” tiller head, the pin that holds the tiller head had sheared off (explaining why we drifted so far off course in the storm) was replace with a pin 50% beefier. Sent replies to some emails messages, tied down the anchors and installed a inner forestay should we ever need to hoist the storm sail. We did a little touring of the town.
It was another sunny and warm day
I feel ready to go with all the new “button” keeping everything right where it belongs.
July 31, 05
We awoke once again to heavy fog. We motor sailed for 10 hrs. to the infamous Columbia River bar. I was very surprised when Dick announced that we had crossed the “bar”. My anxiety at what I had expected was way out of proportion. It was even less intense than the Grays Harbour bar. That said I’m aware the we had timed it well and the weather and the sea conditions we in our favour. It had been another sunny and warm day until we started to navigate down the narrow channel to Ilwaco when the fog rolled in the rain started and all the channel markers were totally obliterated. Navigation by radar was totally impossible with the land mass and obstructions in the water. So, Dick navigated using an amazing software program called Cmap. Ah the wonders of modern technology.
We pulled into our slip at about 8:30 p.m. grabbed a bite to eat and fell asleep before our heads hit our pillows.
August 1, 05
I’m becoming accustomed to waking to fog and having it lift and bring the sunshine to me. We walked into the town of Ilwaco, not nearly as hospitable as Grays Harbour. It’s a very small town something just over 1,000 residents and I’m not sure if they have a large influx of people in the summer months. It appears that Veleda and Blue are the only transient vessels here. Fishing and fish processing are the only visible business and of course the supporting businesses, shipyard, marine and fishing supplies, etc.
We have fewer and fewer chores each time we stop enabling us to do some of the more enjoyable things we’ve wanted to do for a while.
The day prior to departure. It was a very busy day closing up the condo and taking the last few items required for our passage. (Thank goodness Hans had offered to take us to the marina, and that he has a half ton). Our trip out to Pedder Bay was the first of many exciting moments of that most eventful day. After a quick stop at the local Timmy’s for three Ice Caps followed by a second quick stop in which most of one of the unconsumed Ice Caps was fairly evenly distributed throughout the cab of the truck and contents including those sitting within. An effective hair gel for my two male companions, riding shot gun in the back seat definitely had an advantage.
Pete and Jane Hammond have offered to plant sit both the inside and outside plants so there were a couple of “largish” plants to leave at Glen Rosa while we are gone. When they arrived with a unique pruning which can only be achieved in the back of a pick up truck where there heads hang out the tail gate (and Jane is worried that they won’t survive her care, ha!).
Unloading the rest of the truck of its contents into an already overstuffed Blue was the next challenge. The makeshift homes were quickly found to be inappropriate as they would leap out or be repelled by their surroundings as Blue, I would like to say bobbed, but can’t, as two days later rolled and was tossed to and fro would be more accurate.
The Lamb BBQ hosted by the residents of Pedder Bay Marina and RV park for Jens, Alice and Stephen was much fun. We were honored to be included in the celebration and a number of family and friends showed up and presented us with warm wishes, advice, gifts and envied grievances. One of the high points of the BBQ was when after a stressful wait for mom our beautiful grandbaby and her mommy arrived to spend time with us. There was sad goodbyes and a warm hello as Brendan arrived with Milo. Milo seemed uncomfortable on Blue and was anxious and spooked by the wild extension cord lying in wait on the dock. Thanks, to Brendan’s sense of humour and teasing of the impending cavity search at our first destination in the United States did it occur to us that Dick’s passport had been safely stowed in the glove box of the Honda. The Honda that had been lovingly covered and put into storage 12 hrs. earlier. So, a rapid drive back to the condo, and after a few contortions the retrieval was a success and the round trip back to Pedder Bay was executed. Brendan probably didn’t get home till after midnight. Thanks Brendan!
July 25, 05
An early up. Sunshine, light winds and a gang of well
wishers on the dock waved Veleda, Blue and crews a goodbye. As we set off to Port Angeles you could see Peter playing his bagpipes in full costume the request tune “Scotland the Brave”.We were escorted by a number of power and a sailboat out of the bay and into the “Straits of Juan de Fuca”. I think they just wanted to make sure we actually kept going and didn’t double back to the security of our slips.
Light winds provided a brief and enjoyable sail. As we passed the mid channel marker the American courtesy flag was raised. We entered Port Angeles and were checked into Immigration and Customs. After all the hype surrounding the security of entering the States we were anxious and found this truly be a non event. Papers were passed back and forth, money exchanged hands (unfortunately only in one direction) and the deed was done.
PA is a very pretty town, typically small town, friendly, helpful locals, and oh Yeah! Pretty much of everything is closed on Monday.
July 26, 05
Off to Neah Bay at a casual pace, about 49 nautical miles from PA. Thanks to the tide with us we were able to count on an extra 2 kts. As there was little to no wind the entire way the pace would have been a lot slower without the benefit of the tide/current.
We had freighters coming on one side of us and going on the other as we stayed in the “no traffic zone”. I was surprised by how little effect their wake had on us. It was absorbed by the rhythm of the ocean.
When we arrived at Neah Bay Veleda and Blue rafted up together, popped the corks of a couple bottles of champagne to officially acknowledge our passage.
Neah Bay is part of the Makah Indian Reservation and we were anchored with hearing distance of a Pow Wow.
We made it an early night as we were preparing for our first over night sail and wanted to make sure we got as much rest as possible for our sail to Grays Harbour. Despite the fact that the wind howled most of the night we all had a reasonable sleep as Dick and Jens had set the anchor alarms on both boats was there was little chance that we would drift or be dragged around and not hear at least one of the alarms.
July 27, 05
We woke to what I believe was a sunrise ceremony. Neah Bay was totally fogged in, and hearing the singing and beating of dreams somewhere in the fog was surreal.
We prepared for our first over nighter, or what we thought was prepared for the next 24 hrs., a hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner readily available to grab out of the fridge and fill our bodies (Ha!)
.We navigated out of the channel through breaking fog and jockeyed for position with the pleasure fishing boats. The swells were amazing, at first terrifying then as I became more comfortable with the rhythm I could relax at my shift at the helm. The fog persisted through most of the morning, it did break to let the sunshine through for most of the afternoon. The wind picked up and we were finally sailing. Trading off on our 2 hour shifts was working well until we ran into, or more accurately, a squall ran into us! This was not part of our fair weather sailing plans. We reefed in, then at about 7:30 p.m. we heaved to. Heaved to, is as best I can describe, when you put the vessel in the trough of the swell, tying the tiller steady to course and keeping the sail in a small scooping (like a sugar scoop) shape.
We had lost visual and radio contact with Veleda that caused great concern. We were able to contact the PA coast guard to report our position and situation assuring them, or maybe that was assuring ourselves, we were in no immediate danger.
I got religion that night or at least I spoke loudly and often to the big guy, greater power, creator, and or any other spirit that might be listening. It was the longest night of my entire life. A night I will never forget. We learned a lot about what Blue could handle and what we were capable of handling. There we no contest Blue wins! However, if there were ever another situation we would be much more prepared, like the food in the fridge, well you can’t open the fridge door without expecting absolutely everything to come flying out, so pack the thermos bag with everything ready to eat, no assembly required, straws to put in the drink container because your not going to get any thing on the inside of you without one, plenty on the outside but nothing inside. And, man do you ever get thirsty! water, water everywhere and not a chance of getting a drop in you. Oh yeah! And getting sea sick, and using the toilet, this is the only time the playing field is even.
You’ll notice I’m not mentioning what the seas looked like, I can’t describe the image.
July 28, 05
I thought daylight would never come and at 5:30 ish it was light enough to set a course to Grays Harbour. We had drifted off course by about 20 miles, which was a little discouraging as it meant we had nine hours travel to get to our next destination which should have been only 2 or 3 had we not drifted.
Dick got Blue by the rudder and manhandled her keeping her ass to the waves as I glued myself to the GPS and gave him our position . I imagine this could have looked peculiar (if there was anyone around to see) as Dick faced out the stern and me facing forward like we were annoyed with one another. Dick wrestled with the “loose” tiller for about 3 hours before we were able to enlist the service of “Norman” (the autopilot). The seas were still just too angry for Norman or me to push Blue in the direction of Grays Harbour.
Once we were able to get Norman on the job Dick could go for a much needed rest while I keep watch on the radar, Norman and the weather.
Dick re-emerged and we tried to have a little something to eat. Then it was my turn to grab a nap, even though the adrenaline was still surging through my whole body thanks to exhaustion I was able to nap.
We were still exhausted as we approached the “bar”. I was steering, Dick navigating, the seas almost easy now, good thing as I could not have steered with the conditions of 10 hrs. earlier. We worked hard and with only a few tense words we made it over the bar without incident. As we fueled up the sun came out, we found our friends, a slip, a little dinner, and some much needed sleep and rest.
July 29, 05
Fog, Today we spent most of the day stowing the things that had leaped out from their temporary homes during the 45 kts. storm.
They will stay put now as they have been stowed in their new permanent homes adorned with new “buttons” (hardware that holds things down/in/together).
Dick did a job jar of repairs and I cleaned Blue up inside and out, and got some provisions from the friendly community of Grays Harbour. Grays Harbour has to be the most hospitable place I have in memory. Without prompting a man on the street asked if we were looking for the showers. I’m sure it was the towels we were sporting at 8:00 a.m., not our scent that led to his question. The shuttle bus driver after dropping me off at the grocery store where I was able to find a good selection of food and reasonable prices (took me right to the float we were moored at not just the assigned stop). He also offered suggestions as to which float had the best/freshest seafood. The owner of the RV park who offered the use of their wireless remote, regardless of the fact we are not guests of the park. It just went on and on, the folk are just as helpful as can be!
My body has bruises in spots that I didn’t even know that I had spots.There was lots of sunshine today and when you were out of the wind very warm.
July 30, 05
Awaking to a heavy fog we continue to prepare Blue for our next leg of our passage under sunny skies. Veleda is ready to go but we’re still behind by about 9 hrs. and 5 days.
After finishing up our chores including the repair to the “loose” tiller head, the pin that holds the tiller head had sheared off (explaining why we drifted so far off course in the storm) was replace with a pin 50% beefier. Sent replies to some emails messages, tied down the anchors and installed a inner forestay should we ever need to hoist the storm sail. We did a little touring of the town.
It was another sunny and warm day
I feel ready to go with all the new “button” keeping everything right where it belongs.
July 31, 05
We awoke once again to heavy fog. We motor sailed for 10 hrs. to the infamous Columbia River bar. I was very surprised when Dick announced that we had crossed the “bar”. My anxiety at what I had expected was way out of proportion. It was even less intense than the Grays Harbour bar. That said I’m aware the we had timed it well and the weather and the sea conditions we in our favour. It had been another sunny and warm day until we started to navigate down the narrow channel to Ilwaco when the fog rolled in the rain started and all the channel markers were totally obliterated. Navigation by radar was totally impossible with the land mass and obstructions in the water. So, Dick navigated using an amazing software program called Cmap. Ah the wonders of modern technology.
We pulled into our slip at about 8:30 p.m. grabbed a bite to eat and fell asleep before our heads hit our pillows.
August 1, 05
I’m becoming accustomed to waking to fog and having it lift and bring the sunshine to me. We walked into the town of Ilwaco, not nearly as hospitable as Grays Harbour. It’s a very small town something just over 1,000 residents and I’m not sure if they have a large influx of people in the summer months. It appears that Veleda and Blue are the only transient vessels here. Fishing and fish processing are the only visible business and of course the supporting businesses, shipyard, marine and fishing supplies, etc.
We have fewer and fewer chores each time we stop enabling us to do some of the more enjoyable things we’ve wanted to do for a while.
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