Journal 10

February 14 – 26 2006,

Puerto Vallarta

The weather has been consistently hot and sunny during the day cooling off in the evenings for a good sleep. The humidity is increasing and apparently will continue to increase as the summer months heat this place up. I can’t say that I miss the snow, or the rain.
We celebrated Valentine’s having a dinner out at a local restaurant with Vision (Kerry & Jan) a New Zealand registered boat and Mopion (John & Rosie), a great meal and interesting conversation with cruisers.
During our stay at Paradise Village Marina we did a couple of day trips into Puerto Vallarta to visit Dick’s cousin Harvey and his wife Helen from Gull Lake, MB. Harvey and Helen were staying in old town PV (our personal favorite part of town) for a month. I think this was there 10th time down to PV and had a number of friends staying at the same hotel. Our visits though brief were pleasant. This was my first introduction to another one of the Dueck’s. Harvey is Hartley’s twin and wasn’t difficult for me to identify on the beach sitting under a palapa with #48 sunscreen, large brimmed hat and even though he had been in the southern climes for 2 weeks was still a brilliant shade of white (carne blanco). The physical resemblance and similarities in personal characteristics left no doubt to whose twin.
We met up with Apache II and Ole (Keith and Donna) early in our stay and spent some quality time with Ole (cocktail hour(s), and club BBQ) with these friends who ended up leaving to return to Mazatlan after only a few days in the marina.
A few days later Mopion arrived and we had recently discovered Vision at another marina while on a dingy tour of the estuary. So in cruiser fashion, at the evening cocktail party, we planned a day trip into Marina Vallarta with Seadater, Vision and Mopion. We were pleasantly surprised, though we’ve been to the marina before, this trip we discovered a couple of art shops that featured amazingly talented local artisans. Now, if there was a blank 10’ x 10’ wall available on Blue I’d have the perfect hanging, as well, I could have easily tiled the ‘galley’ with some gorgeous hand painted ceramic tiles.
A panga trip with another cruiser, Sparky, who we knew of only by reputation from PMYC in Marina del Rey, to La Cruz gave us the opportunity to meet up with our friend Larry. Larry, who had been anchored in La Cruz because of a fuel pump problem, was awaiting parts that were being transported by our friends Ruth and James from Wpg. Getting parts in Mexico can sometimes be a challenge, this was one of those times. Larry’s son in Victoria was able to get the parts then he had a courier forward them to Ruth in Wpg. she ended up bringing them down in her luggage. This was actually a rather simply solution. It’s all in the timing. Anyway, Larry had spent considerable time in La Cruz and was able to provide us with a tour of La Cruz then the three of us hopped a bus back towards PV and checked out Bucerias looking for suitable accommodations for our now mutual friends. We found a nice hotel and some great restaurants in the more Mexican part of Bucerias.

February 21, 2006

We met Ruth and James at the airport in PV, and hopped a bus back to Bucerias. A really charming town with a lot of Mexico still in it. After getting settled into their hotel, unloading their luggage of the dozens of books they brought down for us and Larry’s fuel pump parts repacked into our knapsack we headed out for a tour of the town. We grabbed some dinner from one of the little places that had been recommended. Dick and I loaded down with a month of reading material headed back to Paradise Village. A good deal for us, as we exchange a suitcase full of books for a suitcase full of our winter clothes to go back to Wpg.


February 22, 2006

The waiting for Blue’s transmission to be rebuilt and the fabrication of the drive plate is over. Dick was fortunate to find a guy ‘Tony’ the transmission magician, who specializes in Hurth transmissions do the deed. He was able to rebuild the broken parts and Dick was able to reinstall the new bits getting us out of the Marina and onto our next adventure.

February 23, 2006

The fuel pump parts exchange is made! Introductions are made and we’re off for an adventure.
Larry, Ruth and James joined us on a day trip, using the local bus service, Pacifico, up to La Penita to take in Market day and a reunion with George, Georgie and Marta at the Hotel California. While we were there we met up with a number of folks we had met earlier this year (Tim & Cathy), and some old acquaintances (Carlotta, and “Jersey”) who not only had we met the year previous so had Larry. So it truly was a reunion of sorts.

February 24, 2006

A great day for a day sail, sunny and light to moderate winds little swell. Our day sail out with Ruth on the tiller and Dick and James being deck baubles on the fore deck until the wind picked up and there was a little spray coming over the bow and diluting their beer. James was sure he had spotted a whale, and we humored him with his discovery. We had an opportunity to give the transmission a trial run as we came into dock at yet our now fourth berth in the marina. Upon our return to the marina, we did a dingy tour of the estuary spotting various birds and even a baby crocodile. Dinner at the yacht club and Ruth and James hopped the shuttle bus back to their hotel.

February 26, 2006

Sunshine, no wind, Ruth and James join us for our motor over to La Cruz. Dick on tiller, Ruth and James, deck baubles on the fore deck. No chance of spillage or diluting of the cervazas today. We’ll anchor here for a few days before we head back to Mazatlan and points north.
A dingy ride to shore, a jam session, and a serving of some really good BBQ’d ribs and chicken at one of the local watering holes. A good time is had by all we bid adieu to our friends as the head back to Bucerias and we head back to Blue, on the hook.

February 27, 2006

A bumpy night on the hook.
Plenty of sunshine and a dingy ride to shore to meet up with Ruth and James for one more visit before they head back to the great white north.
On our dingy ride to shore I spied these little brown tips sticking up in the water, as we got closer we discovered that there were half a dozen or so of these baby rays with the tips of their wings sticking out of the water. They were just slightly larger than the size of your hand, looking very much like what I remember seeing large oak leaves that had been blown into a puddle in the fall.
A tour of La Cruz includes a trip to a couple of art shops. I learn ‘tons’ about the local artisans and am grateful for having had the opportunity to spend the time touring the town.
Farewell to Ruth and James!
We meet up with some old cruiser friends; Veleda has just come up from Barra de Navidad and Tenicateta, Came to Believe (Rich and Annette), Quayak (Richard and Betsy). A brief rendezvous aboard Veleda, as we plan to head out early the following morning.

February 28, 2006-March 1, 2006

Sunshine, following seas, and we’re on our way. As we leave the anchorage we hear DaJu II on the VHF and pass in the channel as they go into LaCruz. We haven’t seen or heard from Dave and Judy, since we shared our spirit breaking passage on the outside of the Baja back in December. It was good to hear their voices as we had heard rumors that they were not going to continue their voyage.
Sea Turtles, rays, and whales join us on our 35hr. passage north. We motor sail the entire way, with very light winds and little swell. A great way to head north. Our first overnighter since heading to Isla Isabella, with buddies. I miss not only the buddy boats but also my night visitors while on my watches. There have been no birds, or dolphins/porpoises for company. Fortunately, uneventful on all fronts.
Three whales got my attention our second morning out. It was sunny and already really warm, I hadn’t bothered with my tether as the seas were flat like a pancake and we were just motor sailing along. Dick was down below catching a few much-needed zees. I was engrossed in one of my newly acquired novels when I heard and then smelled the breath of a whale, as I looked up there were two whales just about to dive, under the boat, they were sooooooo close I started hollering for Dick. All the stories I had heard about the damage that could be done to vessels and the people aboard created more than just a little concern. So, I’m hollering for Dick as they slid under the boat, my anxiety has escalated and I’m convinced that there will be some serious damage. As Dick came up and was standing on the ladder, In retrospect it would probably have wiser not to have him mid way up the ladder when what I expected was that we were going to be whacked and tossed about by one of these beauties. Anyway, by the time he got up top, and the whales surfaced, not two but three of them surfaced and went merrily on their way. We were untouched, unharmed, and no longer concerned. That was my closest encounter with whales, I could see the scar on the back of the lead whale as he slipped under the surface of the water.
We arrived at the entrance to the harbour of Marina Mazatlan just before sunset. This passage has been so gentle and there has been nothing, with the exception of the exhilaration of the whales’ appearance to spice up the trip. So now as we run out of sunlight we run out of diesel. Not a huge delay but enough to cause a little stress as we come into the familiar surroundings of the marina. We’re back on dock 7 and have moved down one slip from 3 to 2. It’s good to be home.

March 2-15, 2006

Mazatlan

Sunshine and increased humidity.
There are lots of fellow cruisers who have returned to Mazatlan, from passages south prior to heading north into the Sea of Cortez as we have. We’re all waiting for the right weather window before heading out, getting all our provisions and just enjoying the hospitality of this place.
There are all kinds of activities both in town and around the marinas. One of the more popular attractions is a local watering hole “Canucks”. Canucks is owned by yes, a Canadian formerly from Wpg. Monday nights are open mike and a good time is had by all. This particular Monday night had the usual evening of dining, dancing and libations. An evening filled with various groups, solo acts, some good and some not so good a bunch of us headed back to the marina in true Mexican style. Piling as many people into the back of a collectivo, driving at or near the speed of light in heavy traffic, while pounding out musica at just less than 10 decibels below deafening. The similarity between the collectivos in La Penita to those in Mazatlan ends at the co-operative ownership. The vehicles in Mazatlan are small red pickup trucks that have two bench seats, one down each side of the box. They have what I would call a roll cage that is covered with blue tarps across the top and down the sides part way looking like the regular cargo carrying trucks back home. The tarps provide a wind/sun break for passengers, as well; they limit your visibility with the exception of out the back end. When passengers wish to get out, you simply study where you’ve been guess where you are and bang on the window so the driver can slow down and mostly stop while you exit the vehicle he then whisks the remaining passengers off to the next destination. Everything was going splendidly and Marina Mazatlan being the last stop meant there was only the four of us, Sorcha (Carl and Linda), Dick, and myself. As the driver approached our stop he was presented with an unexpected chain barrier. He avoided damaging his vehicle by stopping quickly and abruptly. The action in the front end of the vehicle had and immediate impact in the back as I slid down the bench followed way to closely by my captain ending my trajectory by using my head to slow and ultimately stop us on the roll cage. I have been described as a hard head but it was proven no match for the roll cage. After unfolding myself from the truck and some discussion we took a trip to emergency, via Carl’s pickup, for a couple of x-rays which indicated that there was ‘no problemo’ that six stitches behind my left ear wouldn’t cure. I’m happy to report that a cauliflower ear, bruises and sore muscles was all the damage from the collectivo bite.
A day trip to the interior by bus with Marco our tour guide took us to Copala. It was a great adventure though I wasn’t so sure at the start. It started in a jewelry store (yikes!), memories/horrors of our Caribbean cruise ship adventures. After we boarded the tour bus for Copala things improved. A stop at a local bakery, using a wood fired stove, a one man tile making business, a very old church, (not cathedral as it only had one tower and was officiated by a priest not a bishop), lunch at on open air restaurant in an old mining town with a population less than 100, and visit to a local artisan, who makes the most amazing masks from various types of leather. We headed back to Mazatlan, (means: land of the deer)




March 15-17, 2006

We have a weather window to sail across to La Paz (250 nm). We left as soon as the dredge took a scheduled break from clearing the channel. After a challenging get away from the dock, low tide, wind blowing from the wrong direction into the rocks, an uncooperative prop walk (going the wrong way) and little room for maneuvering.
We motored north with our buddy boat The Great Escape (Duey & Nan) towards Altata. There was no wind and little swell for our first leg, then on our own west to La Paz as The Great Escape continued north directly to San Carlos. As the sun sets there are dozens of rays leaping out of the water and leap frogging around. The moonrise is breathtaking and the full moon provides plenty of light via the moon path, lots of stars, no birds and no porpoises/dolphins. It’s lonely, as even the fishing boats tend to travel closer to shore. Our buddy boat is much faster than we are, so not even their running lights to keep you company. It is much cooler as we cross the Sea; we’re wearing long pants and fleecies.
Gorgeous sunrise, hot and sunny we maintain radio contact with The Great Escape and hear that Came to Believe has left Mazatlan and they are headed for La Paz as well.
As we prepare for our second overnighter the engine has a strong petroleum smell and Dick needs to change the fuel filter. Of course, now the seas are choppy and now is when the repair needs to be done, fortunately, its still light out and that makes it just that much easier to work on the engine.
Still no company, and there isn’t even a lot of phosphorescence in the water. It occurs to me that probably a part of the changes in our perception and realities that we’re experiencing are related to the fact that we’re heading ‘home’.
The sunrise is spectacular and the day hot and sunny. We’re nearing LaPaz and new adventures. We’ve been primarily motoring for the past 48hrs. I can hardly wait to shut the engine off.
After tying up, and checking in at Palmira Marina, we run into our old buddy, Ole (Keith) on the dock and plan to head out for dinner after he says some of his good byes as he is leaving to go back home (west of Edmonton) tomorrow.
There is a shuttle that runs into downtown LaPaz, several times a day. While waiting for the shuttle to take us to town, we met Lucy, the golden goose of the marina. She’s a Chinese goose that apparently was blown in here 14 years ago, during a hurricane and has made this her permanent residence. She reminds me of Too Loose the Chinese goose that used to hang out at Boat Harbour with Linda and Julian, maybe they’re kin.

Happy St. Paddy’s Day


March 18-25, 2006

LaPaz

Cool, windy, and Sunny, dry (low humidity)
Rested today and found out that a number of cruisers we’ve met over the past 7 months are here, Sorcha, Anya (Norm), and Shearwater X (Paul and Kristi). Shearwater has been in LaPaz as long as we were in Mazatlan. So, they have all the local haunts checked out.
Did a walking tour of LaPaz with Sorcha (Carl and Linda). We walked from one end of town, Palmira Marina, the downtown area, to the other end of town where Marina de LaPaz is located (about 3 miles). The cacti are in bloom and the erosion from last years rains are in evidence on the sides of the hills. I think LaPaz, though heavily influenced by the relatively close proximity to the US evident by the number of American based chain stores, is the cleanest and best maintained city we’ve been to yet!
It’s really dry here, being a desert and all. I’m slathering myself with cream a couple of times a day just to keep the alligator skin at bay.
Carl and Linda are putting Sorcha, a 50’ Columbia, on Dockwise and having her shipped back to the northwest. They will be driving, like maniacs, to Nanaimo to pick her up when she arrives there in 8 days. Then they’ll begin the search to find a slip for her, probably in Sydney. Where she will be, hopefully, sold and they will find themselves a slightly smaller 40-45’ vessel to continue their adventures.
We have booked into Palmira for a week, and plan, with an appropriate weather window to head up the Sea to do some exploring of the local Islands. We don’t need to do a lot of provisioning as we are still in the process of depleting our stores as we head north.
From La Paz we’ll head north into the Sea of Cortez to spend as much time playing in the sea as we can before leaving for San Carlos where the work will begin as we’ll be putting Blue on the hard for the summer. We’ll probably be in San Carlos/Gyuamas for about 2 weeks cleaning her up and getting her ready to sit out the summer in 45-degree Celsius heat (better her than me). When all the chores are done we plan to take a bus from Gyuamas to Tucson and then fly to Victoria via Seattle arriving back in Canada the first week of May.
A cross-country trip to visit family and friends is in the planning before heading back to San Carlos to continue our Mexico adventures sometime in October.

Happy Bday, Doreen!