October 31, 2006
As we wave goodbye to the condo, we leave her in a state of ‘ready’ for anyone who may be planning a trip to the West Coast. It’s a crisp and sunny day. The cars on the road have a fine layer of frost and we’re headed to Sidney to enjoy a bon voyage breakfast with Barbershop singing friend, Roland before heading to the Washington State Ferry to Anacortes and our new adventure.
Roland and Brenda live in a grand house that has a view of James Island out the backside of the house. At the end of the property there is a great old pine tree, not a beautiful tree full and lush, but one that has been topped at some time in its life and has branches running at odd angles. It is the kind of tree Bald Eagles commandeer and use for nesting and as a look out. There is always activity in and around the tree. In the spring there is a new brood to watch being raised until they are big enough to fend for themselves. Today we watch as one of the adults defends the homestead, and feasts on some freshly caught (I think) salmon.
It was great to see Roland and we are planning a get together with he and Brenda in Newport Beach around the 11th of the month.
We met up with Glen and Helen at the Ferry Terminal, Glen had prepared a couple of tapes for our journey and Helen procured cookies. It’s cool and windy so our farewells are brief.
A sunny 2 ½ hr. ferry trip to Anacortes, with only one stop at Friday Harbour. We arrive at friends, Carl and Linda who host our stay. I was anxious to see the neighborhood kids in their costumes and I was fortunate to get the opportunity to help hand out the goodies to the little and not so little goblins, second thought I didn’t see one goblin but plenty of witches and other costumes of characters I didn’t recognize (a definite indicator of aging).
November 1, 2006
We were able to talk Carl into rearranging his work schedule so he and Linda could join us on a day trip down Whidbey Island. Whidbey Island is the largest island in Puget Sound. A quick stop in Coupeville, one of the oldest communities on the Island before taking the ferry across to Victorian Port Townsend. Port Townsend has hosted the Wooden Boat Festival in September, since 1977.
We ended our day in a great spot in Discovery Bay. It was a glorious sunny clear day. What an advantage, having a local "buddy car" with us, as we were able to travel some back roads instead of traveling the main highway. We took some time to lurk around a marina in Hadlock, a 10 minute drive from Port Townsend, looking at a potential new boat for Carl and Linda (a 36’ Beneteau). It looks like it might be the ‘one’ that will replace Sorcha, a 50’ Columbia. As you can imagine it wasn’t a hardship for us to be walking the docks. We missed having Blue at home with us for the summer and would take any opportunity to poke around a marina.
We spent the evening exploring Sequim, (what a great name for a town) one of the locally recommended restaurants, and back to the timeshare, to play Mexican Train Dominoes.
November 2, 2006
We say goodbye to Linda and Carl as they return North to Anacortes and their daily routine as we continue our journey South. It’s overcast and looks like rain.
We stopped in Port Angeles, and retraced our steps and lookouts from last year. Though, on a clear day you can see Vancouver Island today is not one of those days. There is much activity in the Harbour, freighters are loading and unloading their wares and some wait at anchor for their turn at the dock. We head out knowing we are planning a long car ride.
We drive into the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, and the rain starts. We’ve decided to drive down the more scenic and historic West Coast Highway 101. We drove through the Olympic National Park with plans of taking advantage of some of the 600 miles of park trails of old growth trees. The winding highway took us into the temperate rain forest, and it lived up to its reputation and I think half of the annual rain of 135 inches was unleashed and was dumped, this day. We declined the side trip to Hurricane Ridge as the panoramic view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca wasn’t in the cards as the rain and fog settled in.
It was a really long day and the noise of the rain was relentless. It wasn’t that misty soft kind of rain we experience in Victoria, it was the kind of rain that fell as if a full bucket was being dumped or like when you go through the car wash. I didn’t see the humour in the signs posted for "Car Wash" available at the next exit. That rain kept up all day, lightening briefly when we stopped in Gray’s Harbour for a bite of lunch. .
There are a few comparisons as we try to replicate our previous passage and I haven’t been disappointed, as it had been suggested, on our new experience. I don’t know if it’s because we are taking this leisurely pace to our destination, as most of our cruiser friends do this trip in 3 days. We plan to take about 3 weeks. The similarities between driving versus cruising the coast is evident in the fog. The difference though is the rate. At 5 knots you can creep up on the elusive marker buoys only visible on radar or sometimes when you’re really close you can hear the bells tolling. At 55 miles per hour not being able to see the lines on the road either, is anxiety provoking. The coastline is still rugged and is spotted with outcroppings, however, the differences are the twisting and winding of the road with the knowledge of a shear drop off onto the rugged shoreline.
Though, we planned to take the tour of the Tillamook Cheese factory, we drive on as it is dark, foggy and raining. We arrived in Depoe Bay late and it continued to pour through the night! Still we were very happy to arrive at our abode du jour.
November 3, 2006
What a beautiful view we have from our suite. The Oregon coastline is rugged and seeing the surf pound on the outcrops with the whitewash of spray is a reminder of just how powerful the sea is.
Disappointingly, I have my first car ding. While driving through Newport, OR a car driving northbound sent a stone hurling across the highway and I now have a stone chip in the passenger side of the windshield. Hopefully, it won’t spider to the driver’s side.
Day 2 of relentless rain, fog, winding roads and logging trucks that have no interest in following the suggested/posted speed limits. It’s the kind of day you don’t want to stop and get out of the car, because it’s just not fun! We do though, at a viewpoint to look out and are reminded of our experience from last year, as we crossed the bar at Winchester Bay. It looks pretty benign today; we wouldn’t be tossed around like the bath toy we felt we were last year.
We stop for a late lunch in Port Orford. The rain has let up a bit, though it is predicted that this weather will continue till next Tuesday. Not the kind of endorsement to encourage us to hang around longer than it will take me to eat my blueberry pancake.
November 4, 2006
Overcast as we leave Brookings. As we drive about 25 miles we enter California and the sun comes out. We stopped for brunch in Crescent City, CA another city we truly enjoyed last year and realize how much of the city we missed last year because we were limited to the area around the marina.
We took the 31 mile scenic drive down the Avenue of the Giants, paralleling Freeway 101 and checked out some of the 500 mile redwood belt, stopping for photo opts at the Immortal Tree and the Shrine Drive Thru Tree.
After a short day we are feeling fortunate to find a vacancy at the Sherwood Forest motel in Garberville about 45 miles from Shelter Cove. There is a Rap concert in town tonight and the town is filling up rapidly.
November 5-8, 2006
Sunshine for our car ride today, we’re headed to Windsor, which is about 10 miles north of Santa Rosa. We are headed down the coast as far as Fort Brag and then took the back roads through the lesser-known Alexander Valley, stopping at the occasional winery and vineyard on the way to Windsor. We even bought wine and wineglasses, though the farm gate prices are really high. Talked to many folks who are living their dream running a cottage winery.
We continue south to the town of Windsor where we will stop for a few days. Windsor got its name in 1855 from a pony express rider who thought the area looked like the grounds surrounding Windsor Castle in his native England. The community’s roots are in agriculture, mostly of interest to us was the ‘vineyards’.
A tour of some of the wineries in the area revealed that some of the big names have prices higher than you can buy the same wines in the local Safeway. They have all spent a great deal of money building an architectural marvel as a showroom and tasting counter for the tourists.
We did find a quaint old winery called Foppiano. It is now a 5th generation family business started by Italian immigrants in the 1890’s. They had a fabulous self guided walking tour through the vineyards and showed us the differences between elevations and soil types, between different cultivation styles, and between the age and type of vines. A lot of technical detail to go with tasting the grapes remaining on the vines and detecting the differences in the flavours. Back at the old showroom we had a chat with the manager who told us more of the history of the vineyard and the region. He also told us that the economics of the business are such that a vineyard producing less that 5000 cases annually is really just a tax write off. They bill themselves as a small to midsize producer making about 100,000 cases annually. By the way their wines are really very good (Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon).
The last evening Dick spent singing with the local Barbershop chorous called the Wine Country Troubadors. Some fine singers who regularly go to District competition.
November 8-9, 2006
We head to Redwood City, after a lurk through Pete’s Harbour Marina. A brief visit with our friend Rick and we drive on to Hollister, driving around Los Angeles to visit with friends Duey and Nan of the Catalina 400 ‘The Great Escape’ and whom we last saw in April in San Carlos. (TGE is now sold and Nan and Duey are on to their next great adventure.) They have a huge very lovely home and showed us some great California hospitality including a tour of the local industry and the airport where he keeps a Cessna. Also visited some of Duey's air racing buddies and their planes and their toyboxes.
November 10-11
On to Huntington Beach, and a sleep over with Nancy and Terry at their wonderful condo, with their boat Nancy J moored out the front door. How fun is that! 4 seconds from front door to boat.
They introduce us to their yacht club, a bite of dinner at one of their local haunts.
We head out for a day trip reacquaint ourselves with Newport Beach, which includes a trip to Minney’s Yacht Surplus or what I would describe as your typical nautical recycle junk shop that another salty dog will spend hours digging through bin after bin looking for that exact treasure that another salty dog has parted with..
We tried in vane to hook up with Roland and Brenda, who were staying in town for a conference. To date we had been peaking early, alas not this time, they had checked out of their hotel on the 9th.
November 12-14, 2006
We’re in Oceanside, CA where a group of Franciscan friars arrived in the late 1700’s to found a mission. A strong Spanish influence remains, and the Mission San Lius Rey de Francia, we visited last year is only four miles east of our abode du jour. We’re a mere 30 min drive to San Diego unless of course you plan poorly and hit rush hour. Day one into San Diego goes well both in and out on the freeway, visiting with the ‘Police Dock’ marina and making new acquaintances with the folks waiting to make the leap out of the US and into Mexico. They like us a year ago wait for the weather window on the Police Dock doing the last (or at least what they think are the last of the preparations) before heading to Ensenada.
A trip to the notoriously well know, to boaters, Downwind Marine, and of course we found some things we absolutely needed to have, ching, ching!
Day 2, Dick hops the local rapid transit, and eliminates the freeway experience completely to go pick up the latest boat jewelry ordered from Downwind. .
Day 3, ok, not so smart we peak early and hit the morning rush hour. The trip that we had done previously in 30 min. was now the better part of an hour.
We arrive in Tucson after a long day driving. Another first, as we are looking for a hotel a vehicle pulling a heavily laden trailer had a blow out and bits of tire were flying in all directions. Exciting, and probably a little harrowing for the driver.
November 15-16, 2006
We do some provisioning, picking up some last minute goodies from the local Costco, Home Depot and groceries.
November 17, 2006
We drive from Tucson to Nogales. I’m anxious, as we’ve heard so many horror stories about crossing the border. The first bridge we cross going into Mexico is called "Bridge of Dreams" that translates for those coming from the North to ‘paradise’ and those going North, I can only assume as a chance at fame and fortune, or maybe just a better life for their families.
So far, I’m impressed with the ease in navigating my way through the Mexican Highway signage. Though my reading of Spanish is slow, the way in which the signs are marked have made this task much simpler. Only one wrong turn, which landed us in a lane for ‘a voluntary declaration’. When the customs agent looked in the back of the car which by now was bulging, asked what we had to declare, we said ‘nothing’ he wondered why we had chosen him, but declined to go any farther and told us to ‘go’!
November 17 - December 9, 2006
We arrive in San Carlos, and there is a holiday on Monday and where we were planning on staying is not available. We hustle around and find a place to stay "Gringo Pete’s", Let’s just say that a lot of cruisers stay here as it is close to the dry storage. The units are large, and they have a kitchen and shower. The camaraderie is what keeps you staying there, it is definitely not the accommodations or the maintenance, or the road you need a 4x4 to traverse.
We take time to check that Blue has ‘weathered’ the summer and all seems well, only a wee ‘innesttation’. As most of you know, I’m not really good with critters, the smaller the harder for me so finding the only type of infestation we had was a wee nest in the anchor roller and empty roach traps made this a very positive experience for me. 
One of the messenger lines for a halyard was tangled up in the rigging so a trip up the mast was in order. I can’t believe I’m actually OK with going up in the bosun chair. I even took pictures.We’re invited to an American Thanksgiving Potluck, so we call an early end to our workday on the hard. Not, a hardship as we’re not ready to launch.
We’ve decided rotisserie chicken is an acceptable alternative to turkey. Turkey served with homemade cranberry sauce, from a cruiser back in Victoria, (Thanks BJ), the requisite mashed potatoes, stove top stuffing, and tamales carne, with chips and salsa as an appetizer and freshly baked brownies, thanks to Betsy from Quayak, for dessert, completes this less than traditional festive meal. There was much appreciation for the delicacy.
Mike and Mary just one of the guests here at Gringo Pete’s has been here for 6 weeks, their boat a catamaran was hauled out in Guymas and broken. So they have been under major reconstruction. We originally met Mike and Mary in Morro Bay on last year’s trip down.
November 24 – December 6
We decide enough of Gringo Pete’s and move onto Blue, which was moved into the work yard a couple days ago. We have had the opportunity to clear the cabin out and make space for us to sleep so we can get on with some of the major and many minor jobs we have planned.
They include some welding to repair dents in the keel replacing rudder bushings, (Thanks Peter, they were perfect), painting and cleaning, and many many minor tasks. The camaraderie in the yard is amazing and we make a number of new friends.
Our launch is delayed as the weather is nasty, (40+ knots) and there are no slips in San Carlos Marina, and there are a number of Mexican holidays. We need to find a Mexican calendar so we can get track of all the festivities.
Finally we splash on the 6th and get fuel before we head over to Marina Real about 7 miles north. Although we start early, by the time we get there the wind and waves have become ‘interesting’. Blue performs in her usual fine form. There is a reason they call the first passage the shake down cruise. Things that are going to shake down do! So another trip up the mast is in order as the main halyard decided on a new route, not effective or efficient for the operating of the main sail. OH Goody! not so much as this time up the mast in the bosun (boatswain) chair will be a swaying in the breeze or if Dick decides to move even one muscle I’ll be like a puppet on a string.December 6 - 9
We are met at the dock by friends Paul and Kristy of Beneteau 35 Shearwater X that we first met in Coos Bay last year. Much socializing along with trips to Guaymas and shopping and eating and internet excursions. We end up storing our vehicles at the same place and getting a ride back to Marina Real together.
Hanging out in San Carlos waiting for a weather window. December 9 - 12, 2006
We depart at ohdarkthirty (before dawn) heading on a direct route to Mazatlan 384 nautical miles on a bearing of 135 degrees. A gorgeous sunrise, and hot and sunny weather. Reading in the cockpit, with cocktails, yahoo! We actually have to steer a bit to the west to get around the headland of Topolabampo and to stay out of the shipping lanes and shrimp fleets, as this is a major Mexican port. The first 36 hours we motorsail in light and variable winds and average about 5 knots. At sunset two brown footed boobies via for a position atop the mast for an evening trip to ???? Dick's concern about the size of these guys sitting up there potentially damaging the aerial, my concern is more basic than that big birds = big poop. So, no damage to the aerial and no big poop, however, one of the big guys fell from his perch landing on the side deck, where Dick was dozing on watch and was startled by the thump of our passenger. Needless to say, he was wide awake for the rest of his 9-midnight watch.
The second day once again provided us with another spectacular sunset, and suggested another gorgeous day, not so, the wind and waves start to pick up and we hoist the ¾ jib to maintain speed and cut the engine to idle as we are using autopilot and radar and want to keep the batteries right up. Although we got a little sleep the first night, the second night it was only possible to get a little rest on the cabin sole. Next day continued as boisterously as the previous night and continu
ed until late in the day.
ed until late in the day. We made good progress under sail alone. Conditions started to moderate after sunset the third day and as we closed with the shore the waves eased as well and the swell became more regular. Still not much sleeping going on and so by the time we were 10 miles out of Mazatlan, navigation became somewhat challenging. While we knew precisely where we were, (in the cockpit) the location of the marina entrance was somewhat elusive. We had a little man overboard drill as we lost a fender. Dick could do the math for a reciprocal course but just barely.
Another gorgeous sunrise as we approach Mazatlan
December 12-24 2006
We finally arrived and headed for the fuel dock at Marina El Cid. Conditions at Marina Mazatlan where we had such a good time last year, seem to have deteriorated under new ownership. We are now at B 13 (if you look closely, Blue is tucked in there) in El Cid and enjoying the many facilities. Numerous pools and a hot tub, many local restaurants and shopping and of course meeting lots of people including new friends and old. Activities are planned as quoted by one of our cruising buddies, Eleanor off Red Pepper, between breakfast, bingo and Mexican Train.
Boat jobs take up the early part of each day and then there is the inevitable game of Mexican train, local Christmas pageants, and pot luck dinners. Major jobs include dinghy repair and found an additional 100 litre fuel tank so no more jerry jugs on deck.
Temperatures have been cooler the last couple of days. Mid 70’s and down to 55ish at night. We even have had a couple of rainstorms, which we have never seen before in Mexico.
We're getting the final bits gathered together for the grand Canadian Potluck Xmas Dinner (About 40 Canucks plus a few invited Gringos). I've been assigned veggies (there are advantages to being one of the smallest yachts in the fleet, no expectation of turkey cooking capabilities. Wish Lane was here to make her famous cheese sauce for the broccoli, cauliflower and carrots combo I have in mind.I've got the 18" tree up and decorated, it is secured to the compression post (the post that supports the mast in the salon) with string and our magnetic Santa and Santa's helper mounted atop the Xmas tree sort of like a tree top decoration. The lights we had around the window in the La Penita, hotel room last year are strung around the canopy and hard top in competition with the other vessels who have busily strung lights from every forestay, backstay and any other surface they can find. It actually looks very lovely and being dwarfed in our attempts by the neighbors is just fine.
I'm going to get Dick a wax and polish of the hull for Xmas. Anyway, there won't be a lot of paper to pick up and recycle this year after the gifts are unwrapped. As Dick is getting me a 'serious radio' which will arrive on Jan. 4th with Keith from (Victoria Dos) is returning from Alberta.
In the meantime there is a lot of caroling (glad I brought my pitchpipe) and eggnog to spare.
Boat jobs take up the early part of each day and then there is the inevitable game of Mexican train, local Christmas pageants, and pot luck dinners. Major jobs include dinghy repair and found an additional 100 litre fuel tank so no more jerry jugs on deck.
Temperatures have been cooler the last couple of days. Mid 70’s and down to 55ish at night. We even have had a couple of rainstorms, which we have never seen before in Mexico.
We're getting the final bits gathered together for the grand Canadian Potluck Xmas Dinner (About 40 Canucks plus a few invited Gringos). I've been assigned veggies (there are advantages to being one of the smallest yachts in the fleet, no expectation of turkey cooking capabilities. Wish Lane was here to make her famous cheese sauce for the broccoli, cauliflower and carrots combo I have in mind.I've got the 18" tree up and decorated, it is secured to the compression post (the post that supports the mast in the salon) with string and our magnetic Santa and Santa's helper mounted atop the Xmas tree sort of like a tree top decoration. The lights we had around the window in the La Penita, hotel room last year are strung around the canopy and hard top in competition with the other vessels who have busily strung lights from every forestay, backstay and any other surface they can find. It actually looks very lovely and being dwarfed in our attempts by the neighbors is just fine.
I'm going to get Dick a wax and polish of the hull for Xmas. Anyway, there won't be a lot of paper to pick up and recycle this year after the gifts are unwrapped. As Dick is getting me a 'serious radio' which will arrive on Jan. 4th with Keith from (Victoria Dos) is returning from Alberta.
In the meantime there is a lot of caroling (glad I brought my pitchpipe) and eggnog to spare.
Feliz Navidad Prospero ano y felicdad, to all.
Journal 11
25 March 2006
We departed from La Paz heading north on the final leg. Our first day we motorsailed in company with Norm a singlehander from Victoria on a Vancouver 27 called Anya. Dolphins accompanied and a lone ray leapt and flopped us out of La Paz. We anchored early that day at a lovely spot called Ensenada de la Partida. We bought a fillet of grouper from a local fisherman and had Norm over for dinner.
26 March
After a calm night we bid Norm adieu as he returned to La Paz to put Anya up on the hard. We left later that morning and actually flew our spinnaker all the way to the next anchorage at Evaristo. The fishing village of Evaristo reminds me of a mini Turtle Bay. The prevailing winds are from the NW which is the way we are headed, but today we had a light following breeze and one of the best sails ever. Another cruiser in the anchorage dropped off a fish he had caught earlier that day. So another feast of fish, this time we put our hand to making fish tacos.
Friends Rich and Annette on Came to Believe (Morgan OI 41) from Seattle met us there and came over for cocktails in the cockpit.
We have been towing the dinghy on this stretch, as all the anchorages require some transportation to land. Each tine we leave we have to hoist the outboard onto a bracket on the stern rail and Maureen and I are quite coordinated in accomplishing this in a minute or so.
27 March
Don the weather guru on the Amigo net (8122 kHz at 0715) says the wind will stay in the south so we move on. It was a rolly uncomfortable place to anchor anyway. We sail off with CTB and end up in the North arm of the bay at Agua Verde. As the name implies the water is an incredible green. All our friends who have sailed here before have said this is a place not to be missed and they were right. We stayed here for 2 days with CTB and took pictures and generally fooled around. The afternoon winds (Cozumel winds) on the first day had us uncomfortably close to another cruiser and after much whining I convinced Dick that we needed to move and in the process we sustained our first boating accident. Dick got his left hand caught in the chain gypsy of the winch. In true cruiser fashion, a number of fellow boaters were over with ice and assistance. Dick’s injury was painful but only bruised and scraped. The ice became particularly handy in the G&T required as an anesthetic.
I realized it was time to really fix the winch and so I invented a chain stripper that really works. Should have done that months ago, of course, but never really had the incentive. Now the windlass really works like it is supposed to.
March 28, 2006
Happy Bday, Florence
29 March
Left the anchorage at about 0900 and headed North. By 1030 the wind was 25 knots from the west and really nasty. At 1130 it was back down to 10 knots from the NW and we motored on to Puerto Escondido, BCS. This strange little hole in the wall is not to be confused with the port of the same name a thousand miles south. There is nothing here, but ‘big’ plans to build a marina and a huge housing tract. By the looks of the infrastructure, this plan has been in place for a lot of years as the curbs and sidewalks are all crumbling but no houses have been built and there is not even a little tienda. The ‘marina ‘ is under construction but there is only a seawall and a few mooring buoys so far. Still it is regarded as the best place to sit out a hurricane on the Baja coast, but that is not on our agenda. We met some cruiser folks at the ‘yacht club’ practicing for a band concert but don’t know how many attendees they will have. The big deal here is going to be Loreto Fest in early May, but we won’t be around for it.
Fidele is here, and they are planning to head out directly for San Carlos.
30 March
Motored on to Ballandra Bay, which is across a 10-mile channel from Loreto. Entered a beautiful quiet bay on Isla Carmen and stayed in perfect calm with CTB and a few other boats. We have now come 140 nm from La Paz and have about 120 to go to San Carlos. We get ready for an overnight passage by rolling up the dinghy on deck and getting all secured below as this is going to be heading straight north on a course of 000 degrees for 24 hours or more.
31 March
We leave early and have an escort of dozens of dolphins, obviously on a mission, no playing in our wake. The wake they leave could easily been that of a small motor boat. We motorsail most of the day with a light NW wind and manage to keep fairly close to our course. By midnight however the wind is up over 20 knots and building.
1 April
This is not fun. At 0600 it is daylight and we are near the city but we cannot find the entrance to the bay. The real charts are very small scale and notoriously inaccurate with respect to GPS positions. And the cruising guides are better but do not seem to match what we see from the water. We are tired and the wind is 25 knots from the north and all we want to do is get the anchor down and sleep. We know where we are but we do not know where the harbor entrance is. Finally we make our way in closer to shore with reference to a distinctive rock pile called Tetas de Cabra (goat teats) which we use to find a very narrow inlet to the Bahia de San Carlos. The marina here is crowded and we are told there is no slip for us and they do not know when or if there will be one. Great. We don't care. We see Frank on Chevalita anchored in the bay and so we join him and about 50 other boats on the hook. We toss out 150 feet of chain in 30 feet of water and hit the bunk at 0930. It is blowing 30 knots with higher gusts. Happy April Fool’s Day.
1400 we wake up and find Chevalita closer to us than when we went unconscious and the wind still blowing. We are dragging and 30 knots or not we have to re-anchor. Maureen is spectacular at driving Blue into the wind and spreading chain in the locker below while I raise the anchor. The new stripper is working flawlessly and makes the job much easier. We reset in a spot a little further out as it has better holding bottom. Just then CTB arrives. They have been out in this ‘interesting’ weather 6 hours longer than we have as we left Ballandra at the same time. Their IQ is changing inversely with time spent in 30 knots+. They anchor nearby and sleep for 16 hours.
2-3 April
Many little challenges as we settle in. The dinghy has a hole, which we fix, and we eventually figure out the wind patterns. It is very calm from sunset to about noon as the easterly land breeze flows against the westerly prevailing winds. It gets pretty hot as we are now in desert country on the ‘mainland’ side of the Sea of Cortez. From noon to 1800 it blows like stink starting at 15 and usually working up to a steady 30 knots and gusts to 40. Then back to nothing at sun down.
We still cannot get into the marina so we arrange to simply have Blue hauled out on Monday evening high tide. We would have very few opportunities to do this as there is only one high tide per day this month and most are at night and lots of them are already booked. So we end up in the work yard at Marina Seca and live in the yard on board as we have power and water and showers at the main building. We have much work to do to get Blue ready for summer storage in the intense heat and dryness over the next 6 months. 45 degrees and 0 relative humidity. This is really a desert. Place to be if somewhat dusty.
April 4 to 18
Happy Bday, Donna
We spend time with other cruisers as we get accustomed to sleeping with no movement and waiting for the bow to turn into the wind. Things are pretty shaky at first as we gradually get our land legs. Our main tasks are to get everything off the decks and washed and put away, and then do some touch ups on the paint. Sounds simple but we have to work hard for over a week to get done. We have taken some side trips into Guaymas which is an interesting town and also to the San Carlos commercial centre. Spending time with Duey and Nan of The Great Escape is beneficial as they have a car and teach us a great deal about the area. We have also met Joy and Buzz who have a condo here and have become good friends and also a great help.
April 8, 2006
Happy Bday, Linda and Diane
The weather is getting really hot so we find that getting up early and having a few hours work done before about 1100 is really efficient. On Wednesday April 12 the town starts to shut down for Semana Santos. We discover that this is a festival that continues to Easter Sunday and consists of thousands of young people in a contest to see how little clothing the girls can wear and how much beer the boys can drink while slowly cruising the 15km stretch from Guaymas to Marina Real. Towards dark they slow down even more and half the vehicles are parked on the roadside covered by their occupants. It seems there are about 6 per car and 8 per pickup and every other sort of vehicle from dune buggy to surf board is represented. The beer vendors at the roadside stands do a brisk trade and there is a uniform of some sort stationed every 50 m or so. The music starts about 2000 and continues to 0500. The next day it all starts over about noon.
April 13, 2006
Happy Bday, Kyle
Here is a bit of trivia: Did you know that Easter Sunday is the first Sunday following the first full moon after the Spring solstice. What a curious mix of pagan and Christian events.
We have now got all our travel arrangements made and it will take us three days and car, bus, plane and ferry to get back. It should be an interesting trip, and it seems strange that this turns out to be a very efficient way to do it, but on to the adventure. We are looking forward to seeing everyone and expect to be back about noon on the 20th, but first we have to move Blue from the work yard to the storage yard and complete the decommissioning. See you all soon.
April 17
The big day has finally arrived and we have gotten Blue moved into the storage yard. She is secured between fou 4” pipes and several jack stands and chains so that even a hurricane couldn’t move her. We have covered with tarps to try to reduce the heat and shut all the through hulls and taped them shut so bugs can’t get in. Several large pails of water are inside to try to keep the humidity up and traps set to catch stray bugs.
By 5:30 we are tired and showered. We are picked up by Buzz and Joy and have a final dinner before catching the bus in Guaymas. The bus is only an hour late and an uneventful 8 hour ride later we are in Tucson.
April 18
Tucson is hot at 7:30 in the morning and we finally get a cab to a hotel where the friendly staff give us breakfast and a room which is lovely. Shower and sleep and by 1 PM we are looking for lunch. We found a bus that goes somewhere and take the number 6 north bound to see where it goes. Tucson is a really large spread out city of about 700,000 with a lot of empty spaces between housing developments. There is some industry here and a lot of movie making activity. We get the Cook’s tour from some of the more interesting and colourful passengers on the bus and end up at a very large mall and hour later. We do a little shopping for some food and drink and take the return trip of an hour to the hotel in the airport area.
April 20
By noon we are on a really inexpensive Air Alaska flight to Seattle. Downtown Seattle is as vibrant as ever and we will return soon for a longer stay. There is a lovely old hotel on 9th street called the Camlin. It has been rebuilt by Worldmark and is now a timeshare.
April 21
The 8 AM sailing of the Victoria Clipper is a sellout and we are glad we booked tickets a couple weeks ago. Crowded or not the cat makes 33 knots on its way across the Strait of Juan de Fuca and we close the circle on our 9 month voyage while still on water. The last 2000 miles were quicker than the first 4000 by a long shot and we are glad to be home. Dick’s brother Gery and wife Barbara picked us up at the ferry terminal and brought us home and helped us start to get set up for life in the fast lane. So far we have internet, cable TV and got the car insured and running. Now that our dinghy is back in the water we can get groceries and maybe a telephone. The cruising life in the Mexican sun seems very far away and we are definitely not done with it.
We departed from La Paz heading north on the final leg. Our first day we motorsailed in company with Norm a singlehander from Victoria on a Vancouver 27 called Anya. Dolphins accompanied and a lone ray leapt and flopped us out of La Paz. We anchored early that day at a lovely spot called Ensenada de la Partida. We bought a fillet of grouper from a local fisherman and had Norm over for dinner.
26 March
After a calm night we bid Norm adieu as he returned to La Paz to put Anya up on the hard. We left later that morning and actually flew our spinnaker all the way to the next anchorage at Evaristo. The fishing village of Evaristo reminds me of a mini Turtle Bay. The prevailing winds are from the NW which is the way we are headed, but today we had a light following breeze and one of the best sails ever. Another cruiser in the anchorage dropped off a fish he had caught earlier that day. So another feast of fish, this time we put our hand to making fish tacos.
Friends Rich and Annette on Came to Believe (Morgan OI 41) from Seattle met us there and came over for cocktails in the cockpit.
We have been towing the dinghy on this stretch, as all the anchorages require some transportation to land. Each tine we leave we have to hoist the outboard onto a bracket on the stern rail and Maureen and I are quite coordinated in accomplishing this in a minute or so.
27 March
Don the weather guru on the Amigo net (8122 kHz at 0715) says the wind will stay in the south so we move on. It was a rolly uncomfortable place to anchor anyway. We sail off with CTB and end up in the North arm of the bay at Agua Verde. As the name implies the water is an incredible green. All our friends who have sailed here before have said this is a place not to be missed and they were right. We stayed here for 2 days with CTB and took pictures and generally fooled around. The afternoon winds (Cozumel winds) on the first day had us uncomfortably close to another cruiser and after much whining I convinced Dick that we needed to move and in the process we sustained our first boating accident. Dick got his left hand caught in the chain gypsy of the winch. In true cruiser fashion, a number of fellow boaters were over with ice and assistance. Dick’s injury was painful but only bruised and scraped. The ice became particularly handy in the G&T required as an anesthetic.
I realized it was time to really fix the winch and so I invented a chain stripper that really works. Should have done that months ago, of course, but never really had the incentive. Now the windlass really works like it is supposed to.
March 28, 2006
Happy Bday, Florence
29 March
Left the anchorage at about 0900 and headed North. By 1030 the wind was 25 knots from the west and really nasty. At 1130 it was back down to 10 knots from the NW and we motored on to Puerto Escondido, BCS. This strange little hole in the wall is not to be confused with the port of the same name a thousand miles south. There is nothing here, but ‘big’ plans to build a marina and a huge housing tract. By the looks of the infrastructure, this plan has been in place for a lot of years as the curbs and sidewalks are all crumbling but no houses have been built and there is not even a little tienda. The ‘marina ‘ is under construction but there is only a seawall and a few mooring buoys so far. Still it is regarded as the best place to sit out a hurricane on the Baja coast, but that is not on our agenda. We met some cruiser folks at the ‘yacht club’ practicing for a band concert but don’t know how many attendees they will have. The big deal here is going to be Loreto Fest in early May, but we won’t be around for it.
Fidele is here, and they are planning to head out directly for San Carlos.
30 March
Motored on to Ballandra Bay, which is across a 10-mile channel from Loreto. Entered a beautiful quiet bay on Isla Carmen and stayed in perfect calm with CTB and a few other boats. We have now come 140 nm from La Paz and have about 120 to go to San Carlos. We get ready for an overnight passage by rolling up the dinghy on deck and getting all secured below as this is going to be heading straight north on a course of 000 degrees for 24 hours or more.
31 March
We leave early and have an escort of dozens of dolphins, obviously on a mission, no playing in our wake. The wake they leave could easily been that of a small motor boat. We motorsail most of the day with a light NW wind and manage to keep fairly close to our course. By midnight however the wind is up over 20 knots and building.
1 April
This is not fun. At 0600 it is daylight and we are near the city but we cannot find the entrance to the bay. The real charts are very small scale and notoriously inaccurate with respect to GPS positions. And the cruising guides are better but do not seem to match what we see from the water. We are tired and the wind is 25 knots from the north and all we want to do is get the anchor down and sleep. We know where we are but we do not know where the harbor entrance is. Finally we make our way in closer to shore with reference to a distinctive rock pile called Tetas de Cabra (goat teats) which we use to find a very narrow inlet to the Bahia de San Carlos. The marina here is crowded and we are told there is no slip for us and they do not know when or if there will be one. Great. We don't care. We see Frank on Chevalita anchored in the bay and so we join him and about 50 other boats on the hook. We toss out 150 feet of chain in 30 feet of water and hit the bunk at 0930. It is blowing 30 knots with higher gusts. Happy April Fool’s Day.
1400 we wake up and find Chevalita closer to us than when we went unconscious and the wind still blowing. We are dragging and 30 knots or not we have to re-anchor. Maureen is spectacular at driving Blue into the wind and spreading chain in the locker below while I raise the anchor. The new stripper is working flawlessly and makes the job much easier. We reset in a spot a little further out as it has better holding bottom. Just then CTB arrives. They have been out in this ‘interesting’ weather 6 hours longer than we have as we left Ballandra at the same time. Their IQ is changing inversely with time spent in 30 knots+. They anchor nearby and sleep for 16 hours.
2-3 April
Many little challenges as we settle in. The dinghy has a hole, which we fix, and we eventually figure out the wind patterns. It is very calm from sunset to about noon as the easterly land breeze flows against the westerly prevailing winds. It gets pretty hot as we are now in desert country on the ‘mainland’ side of the Sea of Cortez. From noon to 1800 it blows like stink starting at 15 and usually working up to a steady 30 knots and gusts to 40. Then back to nothing at sun down.
We still cannot get into the marina so we arrange to simply have Blue hauled out on Monday evening high tide. We would have very few opportunities to do this as there is only one high tide per day this month and most are at night and lots of them are already booked. So we end up in the work yard at Marina Seca and live in the yard on board as we have power and water and showers at the main building. We have much work to do to get Blue ready for summer storage in the intense heat and dryness over the next 6 months. 45 degrees and 0 relative humidity. This is really a desert. Place to be if somewhat dusty.
April 4 to 18
Happy Bday, Donna
We spend time with other cruisers as we get accustomed to sleeping with no movement and waiting for the bow to turn into the wind. Things are pretty shaky at first as we gradually get our land legs. Our main tasks are to get everything off the decks and washed and put away, and then do some touch ups on the paint. Sounds simple but we have to work hard for over a week to get done. We have taken some side trips into Guaymas which is an interesting town and also to the San Carlos commercial centre. Spending time with Duey and Nan of The Great Escape is beneficial as they have a car and teach us a great deal about the area. We have also met Joy and Buzz who have a condo here and have become good friends and also a great help.
April 8, 2006
Happy Bday, Linda and Diane
The weather is getting really hot so we find that getting up early and having a few hours work done before about 1100 is really efficient. On Wednesday April 12 the town starts to shut down for Semana Santos. We discover that this is a festival that continues to Easter Sunday and consists of thousands of young people in a contest to see how little clothing the girls can wear and how much beer the boys can drink while slowly cruising the 15km stretch from Guaymas to Marina Real. Towards dark they slow down even more and half the vehicles are parked on the roadside covered by their occupants. It seems there are about 6 per car and 8 per pickup and every other sort of vehicle from dune buggy to surf board is represented. The beer vendors at the roadside stands do a brisk trade and there is a uniform of some sort stationed every 50 m or so. The music starts about 2000 and continues to 0500. The next day it all starts over about noon.
April 13, 2006
Happy Bday, Kyle
Here is a bit of trivia: Did you know that Easter Sunday is the first Sunday following the first full moon after the Spring solstice. What a curious mix of pagan and Christian events.
We have now got all our travel arrangements made and it will take us three days and car, bus, plane and ferry to get back. It should be an interesting trip, and it seems strange that this turns out to be a very efficient way to do it, but on to the adventure. We are looking forward to seeing everyone and expect to be back about noon on the 20th, but first we have to move Blue from the work yard to the storage yard and complete the decommissioning. See you all soon.
April 17
The big day has finally arrived and we have gotten Blue moved into the storage yard. She is secured between fou 4” pipes and several jack stands and chains so that even a hurricane couldn’t move her. We have covered with tarps to try to reduce the heat and shut all the through hulls and taped them shut so bugs can’t get in. Several large pails of water are inside to try to keep the humidity up and traps set to catch stray bugs.
By 5:30 we are tired and showered. We are picked up by Buzz and Joy and have a final dinner before catching the bus in Guaymas. The bus is only an hour late and an uneventful 8 hour ride later we are in Tucson.
April 18
Tucson is hot at 7:30 in the morning and we finally get a cab to a hotel where the friendly staff give us breakfast and a room which is lovely. Shower and sleep and by 1 PM we are looking for lunch. We found a bus that goes somewhere and take the number 6 north bound to see where it goes. Tucson is a really large spread out city of about 700,000 with a lot of empty spaces between housing developments. There is some industry here and a lot of movie making activity. We get the Cook’s tour from some of the more interesting and colourful passengers on the bus and end up at a very large mall and hour later. We do a little shopping for some food and drink and take the return trip of an hour to the hotel in the airport area.
April 20
By noon we are on a really inexpensive Air Alaska flight to Seattle. Downtown Seattle is as vibrant as ever and we will return soon for a longer stay. There is a lovely old hotel on 9th street called the Camlin. It has been rebuilt by Worldmark and is now a timeshare.
April 21
The 8 AM sailing of the Victoria Clipper is a sellout and we are glad we booked tickets a couple weeks ago. Crowded or not the cat makes 33 knots on its way across the Strait of Juan de Fuca and we close the circle on our 9 month voyage while still on water. The last 2000 miles were quicker than the first 4000 by a long shot and we are glad to be home. Dick’s brother Gery and wife Barbara picked us up at the ferry terminal and brought us home and helped us start to get set up for life in the fast lane. So far we have internet, cable TV and got the car insured and running. Now that our dinghy is back in the water we can get groceries and maybe a telephone. The cruising life in the Mexican sun seems very far away and we are definitely not done with it.
Journal 10
February 14 – 26 2006,
Puerto Vallarta
The weather has been consistently hot and sunny during the day cooling off in the evenings for a good sleep. The humidity is increasing and apparently will continue to increase as the summer months heat this place up. I can’t say that I miss the snow, or the rain.
We celebrated Valentine’s having a dinner out at a local restaurant with Vision (Kerry & Jan) a New Zealand registered boat and Mopion (John & Rosie), a great meal and interesting conversation with cruisers.
During our stay at Paradise Village Marina we did a couple of day trips into Puerto Vallarta to visit Dick’s cousin Harvey and his wife Helen from Gull Lake, MB. Harvey and Helen were staying in old town PV (our personal favorite part of town) for a month. I think this was there 10th time down to PV and had a number of friends staying at the same hotel. Our visits though brief were pleasant. This was my first introduction to another one of the Dueck’s. Harvey is Hartley’s twin and wasn’t difficult for me to identify on the beach sitting under a palapa with #48 sunscreen, large brimmed hat and even though he had been in the southern climes for 2 weeks was still a brilliant shade of white (carne blanco). The physical resemblance and similarities in personal characteristics left no doubt to whose twin.
We met up with Apache II and Ole (Keith and Donna) early in our stay and spent some quality time with Ole (cocktail hour(s), and club BBQ) with these friends who ended up leaving to return to Mazatlan after only a few days in the marina.
A few days later Mopion arrived and we had recently discovered Vision at another marina while on a dingy tour of the estuary. So in cruiser fashion, at the evening cocktail party, we planned a day trip into Marina Vallarta with Seadater, Vision and Mopion. We were pleasantly surprised, though we’ve been to the marina before, this trip we discovered a couple of art shops that featured amazingly talented local artisans. Now, if there was a blank 10’ x 10’ wall available on Blue I’d have the perfect hanging, as well, I could have easily tiled the ‘galley’ with some gorgeous hand painted ceramic tiles.
A panga trip with another cruiser, Sparky, who we knew of only by reputation from PMYC in Marina del Rey, to La Cruz gave us the opportunity to meet up with our friend Larry. Larry, who had been anchored in La Cruz because of a fuel pump problem, was awaiting parts that were being transported by our friends Ruth and James from Wpg. Getting parts in Mexico can sometimes be a challenge, this was one of those times. Larry’s son in Victoria was able to get the parts then he had a courier forward them to Ruth in Wpg. she ended up bringing them down in her luggage. This was actually a rather simply solution. It’s all in the timing. Anyway, Larry had spent considerable time in La Cruz and was able to provide us with a tour of La Cruz then the three of us hopped a bus back towards PV and checked out Bucerias looking for suitable accommodations for our now mutual friends. We found a nice hotel and some great restaurants in the more Mexican part of Bucerias.
February 21, 2006
We met Ruth and James at the airport in PV, and hopped a bus back to Bucerias. A really charming town with a lot of Mexico still in it. After getting settled into their hotel, unloading their luggage of the dozens of books they brought down for us and Larry’s fuel pump parts repacked into our knapsack we headed out for a tour of the town. We grabbed some dinner from one of the little places that had been recommended. Dick and I loaded down with a month of reading material headed back to Paradise Village. A good deal for us, as we exchange a suitcase full of books for a suitcase full of our winter clothes to go back to Wpg.
February 22, 2006
The waiting for Blue’s transmission to be rebuilt and the fabrication of the drive plate is over. Dick was fortunate to find a guy ‘Tony’ the transmission magician, who specializes in Hurth transmissions do the deed. He was able to rebuild the broken parts and Dick was able to reinstall the new bits getting us out of the Marina and onto our next adventure.
February 23, 2006
The fuel pump parts exchange is made! Introductions are made and we’re off for an adventure.
Larry, Ruth and James joined us on a day trip, using the local bus service, Pacifico, up to La Penita to take in Market day and a reunion with George, Georgie and Marta at the Hotel California. While we were there we met up with a number of folks we had met earlier this year (Tim & Cathy), and some old acquaintances (Carlotta, and “Jersey”) who not only had we met the year previous so had Larry. So it truly was a reunion of sorts.
February 24, 2006
A great day for a day sail, sunny and light to moderate winds little swell. Our day sail out with Ruth on the tiller and Dick and James being deck baubles on the fore deck until the wind picked up and there was a little spray coming over the bow and diluting their beer. James was sure he had spotted a whale, and we humored him with his discovery. We had an opportunity to give the transmission a trial run as we came into dock at yet our now fourth berth in the marina. Upon our return to the marina, we did a dingy tour of the estuary spotting various birds and even a baby crocodile. Dinner at the yacht club and Ruth and James hopped the shuttle bus back to their hotel.
February 26, 2006
Sunshine, no wind, Ruth and James join us for our motor over to La Cruz. Dick on tiller, Ruth and James, deck baubles on the fore deck. No chance of spillage or diluting of the cervazas today. We’ll anchor here for a few days before we head back to Mazatlan and points north.
A dingy ride to shore, a jam session, and a serving of some really good BBQ’d ribs and chicken at one of the local watering holes. A good time is had by all we bid adieu to our friends as the head back to Bucerias and we head back to Blue, on the hook.
February 27, 2006
A bumpy night on the hook.
Plenty of sunshine and a dingy ride to shore to meet up with Ruth and James for one more visit before they head back to the great white north.
On our dingy ride to shore I spied these little brown tips sticking up in the water, as we got closer we discovered that there were half a dozen or so of these baby rays with the tips of their wings sticking out of the water. They were just slightly larger than the size of your hand, looking very much like what I remember seeing large oak leaves that had been blown into a puddle in the fall.
A tour of La Cruz includes a trip to a couple of art shops. I learn ‘tons’ about the local artisans and am grateful for having had the opportunity to spend the time touring the town.
Farewell to Ruth and James!
We meet up with some old cruiser friends; Veleda has just come up from Barra de Navidad and Tenicateta, Came to Believe (Rich and Annette), Quayak (Richard and Betsy). A brief rendezvous aboard Veleda, as we plan to head out early the following morning.
February 28, 2006-March 1, 2006
Sunshine, following seas, and we’re on our way. As we leave the anchorage we hear DaJu II on the VHF and pass in the channel as they go into LaCruz. We haven’t seen or heard from Dave and Judy, since we shared our spirit breaking passage on the outside of the Baja back in December. It was good to hear their voices as we had heard rumors that they were not going to continue their voyage.
Sea Turtles, rays, and whales join us on our 35hr. passage north. We motor sail the entire way, with very light winds and little swell. A great way to head north. Our first overnighter since heading to Isla Isabella, with buddies. I miss not only the buddy boats but also my night visitors while on my watches. There have been no birds, or dolphins/porpoises for company. Fortunately, uneventful on all fronts.
Three whales got my attention our second morning out. It was sunny and already really warm, I hadn’t bothered with my tether as the seas were flat like a pancake and we were just motor sailing along. Dick was down below catching a few much-needed zees. I was engrossed in one of my newly acquired novels when I heard and then smelled the breath of a whale, as I looked up there were two whales just about to dive, under the boat, they were sooooooo close I started hollering for Dick. All the stories I had heard about the damage that could be done to vessels and the people aboard created more than just a little concern. So, I’m hollering for Dick as they slid under the boat, my anxiety has escalated and I’m convinced that there will be some serious damage. As Dick came up and was standing on the ladder, In retrospect it would probably have wiser not to have him mid way up the ladder when what I expected was that we were going to be whacked and tossed about by one of these beauties. Anyway, by the time he got up top, and the whales surfaced, not two but three of them surfaced and went merrily on their way. We were untouched, unharmed, and no longer concerned. That was my closest encounter with whales, I could see the scar on the back of the lead whale as he slipped under the surface of the water.
We arrived at the entrance to the harbour of Marina Mazatlan just before sunset. This passage has been so gentle and there has been nothing, with the exception of the exhilaration of the whales’ appearance to spice up the trip. So now as we run out of sunlight we run out of diesel. Not a huge delay but enough to cause a little stress as we come into the familiar surroundings of the marina. We’re back on dock 7 and have moved down one slip from 3 to 2. It’s good to be home.
March 2-15, 2006
Mazatlan
Sunshine and increased humidity.
There are lots of fellow cruisers who have returned to Mazatlan, from passages south prior to heading north into the Sea of Cortez as we have. We’re all waiting for the right weather window before heading out, getting all our provisions and just enjoying the hospitality of this place.
There are all kinds of activities both in town and around the marinas. One of the more popular attractions is a local watering hole “Canucks”. Canucks is owned by yes, a Canadian formerly from Wpg. Monday nights are open mike and a good time is had by all. This particular Monday night had the usual evening of dining, dancing and libations. An evening filled with various groups, solo acts, some good and some not so good a bunch of us headed back to the marina in true Mexican style. Piling as many people into the back of a collectivo, driving at or near the speed of light in heavy traffic, while pounding out musica at just less than 10 decibels below deafening. The similarity between the collectivos in La Penita to those in Mazatlan ends at the co-operative ownership. The vehicles in Mazatlan are small red pickup trucks that have two bench seats, one down each side of the box. They have what I would call a roll cage that is covered with blue tarps across the top and down the sides part way looking like the regular cargo carrying trucks back home. The tarps provide a wind/sun break for passengers, as well; they limit your visibility with the exception of out the back end. When passengers wish to get out, you simply study where you’ve been guess where you are and bang on the window so the driver can slow down and mostly stop while you exit the vehicle he then whisks the remaining passengers off to the next destination. Everything was going splendidly and Marina Mazatlan being the last stop meant there was only the four of us, Sorcha (Carl and Linda), Dick, and myself. As the driver approached our stop he was presented with an unexpected chain barrier. He avoided damaging his vehicle by stopping quickly and abruptly. The action in the front end of the vehicle had and immediate impact in the back as I slid down the bench followed way to closely by my captain ending my trajectory by using my head to slow and ultimately stop us on the roll cage. I have been described as a hard head but it was proven no match for the roll cage. After unfolding myself from the truck and some discussion we took a trip to emergency, via Carl’s pickup, for a couple of x-rays which indicated that there was ‘no problemo’ that six stitches behind my left ear wouldn’t cure. I’m happy to report that a cauliflower ear, bruises and sore muscles was all the damage from the collectivo bite.
A day trip to the interior by bus with Marco our tour guide took us to Copala. It was a great adventure though I wasn’t so sure at the start. It started in a jewelry store (yikes!), memories/horrors of our Caribbean cruise ship adventures. After we boarded the tour bus for Copala things improved. A stop at a local bakery, using a wood fired stove, a one man tile making business, a very old church, (not cathedral as it only had one tower and was officiated by a priest not a bishop), lunch at on open air restaurant in an old mining town with a population less than 100, and visit to a local artisan, who makes the most amazing masks from various types of leather. We headed back to Mazatlan, (means: land of the deer)
March 15-17, 2006
We have a weather window to sail across to La Paz (250 nm). We left as soon as the dredge took a scheduled break from clearing the channel. After a challenging get away from the dock, low tide, wind blowing from the wrong direction into the rocks, an uncooperative prop walk (going the wrong way) and little room for maneuvering.
We motored north with our buddy boat The Great Escape (Duey & Nan) towards Altata. There was no wind and little swell for our first leg, then on our own west to La Paz as The Great Escape continued north directly to San Carlos. As the sun sets there are dozens of rays leaping out of the water and leap frogging around. The moonrise is breathtaking and the full moon provides plenty of light via the moon path, lots of stars, no birds and no porpoises/dolphins. It’s lonely, as even the fishing boats tend to travel closer to shore. Our buddy boat is much faster than we are, so not even their running lights to keep you company. It is much cooler as we cross the Sea; we’re wearing long pants and fleecies.
Gorgeous sunrise, hot and sunny we maintain radio contact with The Great Escape and hear that Came to Believe has left Mazatlan and they are headed for La Paz as well.
As we prepare for our second overnighter the engine has a strong petroleum smell and Dick needs to change the fuel filter. Of course, now the seas are choppy and now is when the repair needs to be done, fortunately, its still light out and that makes it just that much easier to work on the engine.
Still no company, and there isn’t even a lot of phosphorescence in the water. It occurs to me that probably a part of the changes in our perception and realities that we’re experiencing are related to the fact that we’re heading ‘home’.
The sunrise is spectacular and the day hot and sunny. We’re nearing LaPaz and new adventures. We’ve been primarily motoring for the past 48hrs. I can hardly wait to shut the engine off.
After tying up, and checking in at Palmira Marina, we run into our old buddy, Ole (Keith) on the dock and plan to head out for dinner after he says some of his good byes as he is leaving to go back home (west of Edmonton) tomorrow.
There is a shuttle that runs into downtown LaPaz, several times a day. While waiting for the shuttle to take us to town, we met Lucy, the golden goose of the marina. She’s a Chinese goose that apparently was blown in here 14 years ago, during a hurricane and has made this her permanent residence. She reminds me of Too Loose the Chinese goose that used to hang out at Boat Harbour with Linda and Julian, maybe they’re kin.
Happy St. Paddy’s Day
March 18-25, 2006
LaPaz
Cool, windy, and Sunny, dry (low humidity)
Rested today and found out that a number of cruisers we’ve met over the past 7 months are here, Sorcha, Anya (Norm), and Shearwater X (Paul and Kristi). Shearwater has been in LaPaz as long as we were in Mazatlan. So, they have all the local haunts checked out.
Did a walking tour of LaPaz with Sorcha (Carl and Linda). We walked from one end of town, Palmira Marina, the downtown area, to the other end of town where Marina de LaPaz is located (about 3 miles). The cacti are in bloom and the erosion from last years rains are in evidence on the sides of the hills. I think LaPaz, though heavily influenced by the relatively close proximity to the US evident by the number of American based chain stores, is the cleanest and best maintained city we’ve been to yet!
It’s really dry here, being a desert and all. I’m slathering myself with cream a couple of times a day just to keep the alligator skin at bay.
Carl and Linda are putting Sorcha, a 50’ Columbia, on Dockwise and having her shipped back to the northwest. They will be driving, like maniacs, to Nanaimo to pick her up when she arrives there in 8 days. Then they’ll begin the search to find a slip for her, probably in Sydney. Where she will be, hopefully, sold and they will find themselves a slightly smaller 40-45’ vessel to continue their adventures.
We have booked into Palmira for a week, and plan, with an appropriate weather window to head up the Sea to do some exploring of the local Islands. We don’t need to do a lot of provisioning as we are still in the process of depleting our stores as we head north.
From La Paz we’ll head north into the Sea of Cortez to spend as much time playing in the sea as we can before leaving for San Carlos where the work will begin as we’ll be putting Blue on the hard for the summer. We’ll probably be in San Carlos/Gyuamas for about 2 weeks cleaning her up and getting her ready to sit out the summer in 45-degree Celsius heat (better her than me). When all the chores are done we plan to take a bus from Gyuamas to Tucson and then fly to Victoria via Seattle arriving back in Canada the first week of May.
A cross-country trip to visit family and friends is in the planning before heading back to San Carlos to continue our Mexico adventures sometime in October.
Happy Bday, Doreen!
Puerto Vallarta
The weather has been consistently hot and sunny during the day cooling off in the evenings for a good sleep. The humidity is increasing and apparently will continue to increase as the summer months heat this place up. I can’t say that I miss the snow, or the rain.
We celebrated Valentine’s having a dinner out at a local restaurant with Vision (Kerry & Jan) a New Zealand registered boat and Mopion (John & Rosie), a great meal and interesting conversation with cruisers.
During our stay at Paradise Village Marina we did a couple of day trips into Puerto Vallarta to visit Dick’s cousin Harvey and his wife Helen from Gull Lake, MB. Harvey and Helen were staying in old town PV (our personal favorite part of town) for a month. I think this was there 10th time down to PV and had a number of friends staying at the same hotel. Our visits though brief were pleasant. This was my first introduction to another one of the Dueck’s. Harvey is Hartley’s twin and wasn’t difficult for me to identify on the beach sitting under a palapa with #48 sunscreen, large brimmed hat and even though he had been in the southern climes for 2 weeks was still a brilliant shade of white (carne blanco). The physical resemblance and similarities in personal characteristics left no doubt to whose twin.
We met up with Apache II and Ole (Keith and Donna) early in our stay and spent some quality time with Ole (cocktail hour(s), and club BBQ) with these friends who ended up leaving to return to Mazatlan after only a few days in the marina.
A few days later Mopion arrived and we had recently discovered Vision at another marina while on a dingy tour of the estuary. So in cruiser fashion, at the evening cocktail party, we planned a day trip into Marina Vallarta with Seadater, Vision and Mopion. We were pleasantly surprised, though we’ve been to the marina before, this trip we discovered a couple of art shops that featured amazingly talented local artisans. Now, if there was a blank 10’ x 10’ wall available on Blue I’d have the perfect hanging, as well, I could have easily tiled the ‘galley’ with some gorgeous hand painted ceramic tiles.
A panga trip with another cruiser, Sparky, who we knew of only by reputation from PMYC in Marina del Rey, to La Cruz gave us the opportunity to meet up with our friend Larry. Larry, who had been anchored in La Cruz because of a fuel pump problem, was awaiting parts that were being transported by our friends Ruth and James from Wpg. Getting parts in Mexico can sometimes be a challenge, this was one of those times. Larry’s son in Victoria was able to get the parts then he had a courier forward them to Ruth in Wpg. she ended up bringing them down in her luggage. This was actually a rather simply solution. It’s all in the timing. Anyway, Larry had spent considerable time in La Cruz and was able to provide us with a tour of La Cruz then the three of us hopped a bus back towards PV and checked out Bucerias looking for suitable accommodations for our now mutual friends. We found a nice hotel and some great restaurants in the more Mexican part of Bucerias.
February 21, 2006
We met Ruth and James at the airport in PV, and hopped a bus back to Bucerias. A really charming town with a lot of Mexico still in it. After getting settled into their hotel, unloading their luggage of the dozens of books they brought down for us and Larry’s fuel pump parts repacked into our knapsack we headed out for a tour of the town. We grabbed some dinner from one of the little places that had been recommended. Dick and I loaded down with a month of reading material headed back to Paradise Village. A good deal for us, as we exchange a suitcase full of books for a suitcase full of our winter clothes to go back to Wpg.
February 22, 2006
The waiting for Blue’s transmission to be rebuilt and the fabrication of the drive plate is over. Dick was fortunate to find a guy ‘Tony’ the transmission magician, who specializes in Hurth transmissions do the deed. He was able to rebuild the broken parts and Dick was able to reinstall the new bits getting us out of the Marina and onto our next adventure.
February 23, 2006
The fuel pump parts exchange is made! Introductions are made and we’re off for an adventure.
Larry, Ruth and James joined us on a day trip, using the local bus service, Pacifico, up to La Penita to take in Market day and a reunion with George, Georgie and Marta at the Hotel California. While we were there we met up with a number of folks we had met earlier this year (Tim & Cathy), and some old acquaintances (Carlotta, and “Jersey”) who not only had we met the year previous so had Larry. So it truly was a reunion of sorts.
February 24, 2006
A great day for a day sail, sunny and light to moderate winds little swell. Our day sail out with Ruth on the tiller and Dick and James being deck baubles on the fore deck until the wind picked up and there was a little spray coming over the bow and diluting their beer. James was sure he had spotted a whale, and we humored him with his discovery. We had an opportunity to give the transmission a trial run as we came into dock at yet our now fourth berth in the marina. Upon our return to the marina, we did a dingy tour of the estuary spotting various birds and even a baby crocodile. Dinner at the yacht club and Ruth and James hopped the shuttle bus back to their hotel.
February 26, 2006
Sunshine, no wind, Ruth and James join us for our motor over to La Cruz. Dick on tiller, Ruth and James, deck baubles on the fore deck. No chance of spillage or diluting of the cervazas today. We’ll anchor here for a few days before we head back to Mazatlan and points north.
A dingy ride to shore, a jam session, and a serving of some really good BBQ’d ribs and chicken at one of the local watering holes. A good time is had by all we bid adieu to our friends as the head back to Bucerias and we head back to Blue, on the hook.
February 27, 2006
A bumpy night on the hook.
Plenty of sunshine and a dingy ride to shore to meet up with Ruth and James for one more visit before they head back to the great white north.
On our dingy ride to shore I spied these little brown tips sticking up in the water, as we got closer we discovered that there were half a dozen or so of these baby rays with the tips of their wings sticking out of the water. They were just slightly larger than the size of your hand, looking very much like what I remember seeing large oak leaves that had been blown into a puddle in the fall.
A tour of La Cruz includes a trip to a couple of art shops. I learn ‘tons’ about the local artisans and am grateful for having had the opportunity to spend the time touring the town.
Farewell to Ruth and James!
We meet up with some old cruiser friends; Veleda has just come up from Barra de Navidad and Tenicateta, Came to Believe (Rich and Annette), Quayak (Richard and Betsy). A brief rendezvous aboard Veleda, as we plan to head out early the following morning.
February 28, 2006-March 1, 2006
Sunshine, following seas, and we’re on our way. As we leave the anchorage we hear DaJu II on the VHF and pass in the channel as they go into LaCruz. We haven’t seen or heard from Dave and Judy, since we shared our spirit breaking passage on the outside of the Baja back in December. It was good to hear their voices as we had heard rumors that they were not going to continue their voyage.
Sea Turtles, rays, and whales join us on our 35hr. passage north. We motor sail the entire way, with very light winds and little swell. A great way to head north. Our first overnighter since heading to Isla Isabella, with buddies. I miss not only the buddy boats but also my night visitors while on my watches. There have been no birds, or dolphins/porpoises for company. Fortunately, uneventful on all fronts.
Three whales got my attention our second morning out. It was sunny and already really warm, I hadn’t bothered with my tether as the seas were flat like a pancake and we were just motor sailing along. Dick was down below catching a few much-needed zees. I was engrossed in one of my newly acquired novels when I heard and then smelled the breath of a whale, as I looked up there were two whales just about to dive, under the boat, they were sooooooo close I started hollering for Dick. All the stories I had heard about the damage that could be done to vessels and the people aboard created more than just a little concern. So, I’m hollering for Dick as they slid under the boat, my anxiety has escalated and I’m convinced that there will be some serious damage. As Dick came up and was standing on the ladder, In retrospect it would probably have wiser not to have him mid way up the ladder when what I expected was that we were going to be whacked and tossed about by one of these beauties. Anyway, by the time he got up top, and the whales surfaced, not two but three of them surfaced and went merrily on their way. We were untouched, unharmed, and no longer concerned. That was my closest encounter with whales, I could see the scar on the back of the lead whale as he slipped under the surface of the water.
We arrived at the entrance to the harbour of Marina Mazatlan just before sunset. This passage has been so gentle and there has been nothing, with the exception of the exhilaration of the whales’ appearance to spice up the trip. So now as we run out of sunlight we run out of diesel. Not a huge delay but enough to cause a little stress as we come into the familiar surroundings of the marina. We’re back on dock 7 and have moved down one slip from 3 to 2. It’s good to be home.
March 2-15, 2006
Mazatlan
Sunshine and increased humidity.
There are lots of fellow cruisers who have returned to Mazatlan, from passages south prior to heading north into the Sea of Cortez as we have. We’re all waiting for the right weather window before heading out, getting all our provisions and just enjoying the hospitality of this place.
There are all kinds of activities both in town and around the marinas. One of the more popular attractions is a local watering hole “Canucks”. Canucks is owned by yes, a Canadian formerly from Wpg. Monday nights are open mike and a good time is had by all. This particular Monday night had the usual evening of dining, dancing and libations. An evening filled with various groups, solo acts, some good and some not so good a bunch of us headed back to the marina in true Mexican style. Piling as many people into the back of a collectivo, driving at or near the speed of light in heavy traffic, while pounding out musica at just less than 10 decibels below deafening. The similarity between the collectivos in La Penita to those in Mazatlan ends at the co-operative ownership. The vehicles in Mazatlan are small red pickup trucks that have two bench seats, one down each side of the box. They have what I would call a roll cage that is covered with blue tarps across the top and down the sides part way looking like the regular cargo carrying trucks back home. The tarps provide a wind/sun break for passengers, as well; they limit your visibility with the exception of out the back end. When passengers wish to get out, you simply study where you’ve been guess where you are and bang on the window so the driver can slow down and mostly stop while you exit the vehicle he then whisks the remaining passengers off to the next destination. Everything was going splendidly and Marina Mazatlan being the last stop meant there was only the four of us, Sorcha (Carl and Linda), Dick, and myself. As the driver approached our stop he was presented with an unexpected chain barrier. He avoided damaging his vehicle by stopping quickly and abruptly. The action in the front end of the vehicle had and immediate impact in the back as I slid down the bench followed way to closely by my captain ending my trajectory by using my head to slow and ultimately stop us on the roll cage. I have been described as a hard head but it was proven no match for the roll cage. After unfolding myself from the truck and some discussion we took a trip to emergency, via Carl’s pickup, for a couple of x-rays which indicated that there was ‘no problemo’ that six stitches behind my left ear wouldn’t cure. I’m happy to report that a cauliflower ear, bruises and sore muscles was all the damage from the collectivo bite.
A day trip to the interior by bus with Marco our tour guide took us to Copala. It was a great adventure though I wasn’t so sure at the start. It started in a jewelry store (yikes!), memories/horrors of our Caribbean cruise ship adventures. After we boarded the tour bus for Copala things improved. A stop at a local bakery, using a wood fired stove, a one man tile making business, a very old church, (not cathedral as it only had one tower and was officiated by a priest not a bishop), lunch at on open air restaurant in an old mining town with a population less than 100, and visit to a local artisan, who makes the most amazing masks from various types of leather. We headed back to Mazatlan, (means: land of the deer)
March 15-17, 2006
We have a weather window to sail across to La Paz (250 nm). We left as soon as the dredge took a scheduled break from clearing the channel. After a challenging get away from the dock, low tide, wind blowing from the wrong direction into the rocks, an uncooperative prop walk (going the wrong way) and little room for maneuvering.
We motored north with our buddy boat The Great Escape (Duey & Nan) towards Altata. There was no wind and little swell for our first leg, then on our own west to La Paz as The Great Escape continued north directly to San Carlos. As the sun sets there are dozens of rays leaping out of the water and leap frogging around. The moonrise is breathtaking and the full moon provides plenty of light via the moon path, lots of stars, no birds and no porpoises/dolphins. It’s lonely, as even the fishing boats tend to travel closer to shore. Our buddy boat is much faster than we are, so not even their running lights to keep you company. It is much cooler as we cross the Sea; we’re wearing long pants and fleecies.
Gorgeous sunrise, hot and sunny we maintain radio contact with The Great Escape and hear that Came to Believe has left Mazatlan and they are headed for La Paz as well.
As we prepare for our second overnighter the engine has a strong petroleum smell and Dick needs to change the fuel filter. Of course, now the seas are choppy and now is when the repair needs to be done, fortunately, its still light out and that makes it just that much easier to work on the engine.
Still no company, and there isn’t even a lot of phosphorescence in the water. It occurs to me that probably a part of the changes in our perception and realities that we’re experiencing are related to the fact that we’re heading ‘home’.
The sunrise is spectacular and the day hot and sunny. We’re nearing LaPaz and new adventures. We’ve been primarily motoring for the past 48hrs. I can hardly wait to shut the engine off.
After tying up, and checking in at Palmira Marina, we run into our old buddy, Ole (Keith) on the dock and plan to head out for dinner after he says some of his good byes as he is leaving to go back home (west of Edmonton) tomorrow.
There is a shuttle that runs into downtown LaPaz, several times a day. While waiting for the shuttle to take us to town, we met Lucy, the golden goose of the marina. She’s a Chinese goose that apparently was blown in here 14 years ago, during a hurricane and has made this her permanent residence. She reminds me of Too Loose the Chinese goose that used to hang out at Boat Harbour with Linda and Julian, maybe they’re kin.
Happy St. Paddy’s Day
March 18-25, 2006
LaPaz
Cool, windy, and Sunny, dry (low humidity)
Rested today and found out that a number of cruisers we’ve met over the past 7 months are here, Sorcha, Anya (Norm), and Shearwater X (Paul and Kristi). Shearwater has been in LaPaz as long as we were in Mazatlan. So, they have all the local haunts checked out.
Did a walking tour of LaPaz with Sorcha (Carl and Linda). We walked from one end of town, Palmira Marina, the downtown area, to the other end of town where Marina de LaPaz is located (about 3 miles). The cacti are in bloom and the erosion from last years rains are in evidence on the sides of the hills. I think LaPaz, though heavily influenced by the relatively close proximity to the US evident by the number of American based chain stores, is the cleanest and best maintained city we’ve been to yet!
It’s really dry here, being a desert and all. I’m slathering myself with cream a couple of times a day just to keep the alligator skin at bay.
Carl and Linda are putting Sorcha, a 50’ Columbia, on Dockwise and having her shipped back to the northwest. They will be driving, like maniacs, to Nanaimo to pick her up when she arrives there in 8 days. Then they’ll begin the search to find a slip for her, probably in Sydney. Where she will be, hopefully, sold and they will find themselves a slightly smaller 40-45’ vessel to continue their adventures.
We have booked into Palmira for a week, and plan, with an appropriate weather window to head up the Sea to do some exploring of the local Islands. We don’t need to do a lot of provisioning as we are still in the process of depleting our stores as we head north.
From La Paz we’ll head north into the Sea of Cortez to spend as much time playing in the sea as we can before leaving for San Carlos where the work will begin as we’ll be putting Blue on the hard for the summer. We’ll probably be in San Carlos/Gyuamas for about 2 weeks cleaning her up and getting her ready to sit out the summer in 45-degree Celsius heat (better her than me). When all the chores are done we plan to take a bus from Gyuamas to Tucson and then fly to Victoria via Seattle arriving back in Canada the first week of May.
A cross-country trip to visit family and friends is in the planning before heading back to San Carlos to continue our Mexico adventures sometime in October.
Happy Bday, Doreen!
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